Stará cesta, Lebka (Věž Ignáce Funkeho) 6

Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise, Hruboskalsko centre, Dračí skály, Lebka (Věž Ignáce Funkeho)

Rock Climbing, Textile belay

Overview

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Last updated 2024-03-26

Grade 6

Climbing season

Restrictions in 5 month(s)

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Difficulty

Rock Climbing Textile belay

Location

50.54917, 15.19200

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By a crack in the NE face into a small cave (hourglass), diagonally right up into the corner and left to the 1st ring. Right into the corner and by it to the mouth of the inner chimney. Along the double crack up to the fore-summit below the summit head. From the W head along a narrow ledge left to the N corner. Up and along a diagonal notch right, near the edge (2nd ring) into the holes and right to the summit. (Due to rock devastation, the original number of two rings in the summit head was reduced to one by VK Hruboskalsko.)

L. Vodhánek - J. Janků (1954): By the East corner we ascend to a narrow ledge, along which we traverse right into a small cave (belay sling). We can also start directly into this small cave by a narrow, push-off crack. From here we continue by the corner to the 1st ring and further to a flat area between two rocks, which form a massive fore-summit. Here we move to the East face and along a vertical notch we ascend to the summit of the fore-summit. We climb the "Head" first along the left edge up to the ring and from there diagonally up to the right with difficulty to the right edge, where there is a third ring. From there up the smooth summit face very strenuously.

Rules

Nature protection: Climbing is seasonally prohibited from 1. 11. to 31. 3. Nature Protection Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps body of OP CHKO Český Ráj (Bohemian Paradise)

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions apply to specific rocks. Nature Protection Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps OP authority CHKO Český Ráj

Chalk is banned.
No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
Abseil only from fixed anchors.
Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.