Stará cesta

By a crack in the NE face into a small cave (hourglass), diagonally right up into the corner and left to the 1st ring. Right into the corner and by it to the mouth of the inner chimney. Along the double crack up to the fore-summit below the summit head. From the W head along a narrow ledge left to the N corner. Up and along a diagonal notch right, near the edge (2nd ring) into the holes and right to the summit. (Due to rock devastation, the original number of two rings in the summit head was reduced to one by VK Hruboskalsko.)

L. Vodhánek - J. Janků (1954): By the East corner we ascend to a narrow ledge, along which we traverse right into a small cave (belay sling). We can also start directly into this small cave by a narrow, push-off crack. From here we continue by the corner to the 1st ring and further to a flat area between two rocks, which form a massive fore-summit. Here we move to the East face and along a vertical notch we ascend to the summit of the fore-summit. We climb the "Head" first along the left edge up to the ring and from there diagonally up to the right with difficulty to the right edge, where there is a third ring. From there up the smooth summit face very strenuously.

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