Skip to content
You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.
Overview
Suggest changes

Last updated 2024-05-11

Grade 5+

Climbing season

Restrictions in 6 month(s)

  • Open
  • Restricted
  • Unknown
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Community

Help improve this page

No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Log ascent Suggest a topo Suggest changes
Difficulty
5+
Length
18 m
Location

49.37317, 16.72952

Navigate Navigate to the climb Google Mapy

Parking 1.8 km

49.36337, 16.70908

Google Waze
From the first belay of Zábranský's route, go right along the ledge for about five meters, directly across the offshoot and into the recess on the ledge (piton), along the crack (piton) and right up the wall to the ledge of Zábranský's route. (cams and friends essential)

Discover Varianta normálky, a climbing route rated 5+. The total length of this route is 18 meters. Check the latest user reviews, view the topo map below, or join the community to add your own photos for Varianta normálky.

Rules

Nature protection: Climbing prohibited 1.1. to 30.6. Nature Protection Document: Decision 2016, OP body CHKO Moravský Kras.

OVK: in technical ascents of freely climbed routes, only removable protection can be used; it is forbidden to use pitons, bolts, spits, etc. installed with a hammer Nature protection: - climbers are obliged not to leave protection in the routes after completing the ascent

Nature protection: Climbing is prohibited on some rocks from January 1st to June 30th. Nature Protection Document: Decision 2016, Nature Protection authority: CHKO Moravský Kras.

At Holštejn, climbing out onto the top of the cliffs is banned.

Moravian Karst PLA – climbing only on permitted rocks. Some crags may be climbed only in the second half of the year; details in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

Weather forecast

Live 3-day weather forecast for this place and an estimate of whether the rock is dry enough to climb today, updated every hour.

Current conditions

No condition reports in the last 30 days.

No logs yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Reviews 0
Have you climbed here?
0 people bookmarked this place
Share this route

Send it to the person you want to climb it with.

WhatsApp Facebook

Nobody to climb with?

Find a climbing partner
Find a climbing partner
Author

J. Beneš

J. Novák

Similar routes nearby (around grade 5+)
5+
Henryho stěna
From the stone down and a laid corner and over the overhang. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
5+
Kateřinský prst
Up the middle of the broken pillar. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Kateřinský prst
Corner to the right of the pillar. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
5+
Za zrcadlem
Diagonally left along the ramp. Further right via a crack and over the final overhang… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
5+
Kateřinský prst
Through the corner and then up the middle of the narrow pillar. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Kůň a policejní
Original classification V+ A0 Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
Other climbing routes in Macocha - vrchol
6+
Macocha - vrchol
Original classification V A1
6+
Macocha - vrchol
From the first belay of Zábranský's route, straight up the wall into a recess (crack) and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
7+
Macocha - vrchol
From the second belay of Zábranský's route, up a small wall to the left (piton, ring) to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
6+
Macocha - vrchol
From the second belay of Zábranský's route, directly up the crack (3 bolts, pitons,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +8
7-
Macocha - vrchol
Original classification V A0
7-
Macocha - vrchol
From the middle of the first pitch of "Vršek Macochy" (Plšek's route or normal route) up…
6+
Macocha - vrchol
L1 (6): From the half of the first pitch of Zábranský's route, traverse along the ledge…
7+
Macocha - vrchol
Original classification IV A1 Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
6
Macocha - vrchol
Original classification V A1 Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
8+
Macocha - vrchol
L1 (8+): From the first pitch of Zábranský's route (bolt) up to the ledge and further… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2