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Climbing at Moravian Karst

1344 routes
8 areas
2+–12 grades

The Moravian Karst is a limestone protected landscape area north of Brno near Blansko, covering about 92 km². The landscape is made of gorges, rock walls and around 1,100 caves and abysses; five cave systems are open to the public, among them the Punkva Caves discovered by Karel Absolon. The best-known feature is the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, formed when the roof of a cave chamber collapsed, where the Punkva river disappears underground. Marked hiking and cycling trails cross the area.

Climbing is concentrated on the rock walls of the valleys; the best known is Holštejn, with overhanging and vertical walls, often with long run-outs, and hundreds of boulder problems – it is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic. The limestone can be quite slippery and needs precise footwork and strong fingers; some easier routes are polished and sparsely bolted, so Holštejn is not ideal for complete beginners. The whole area is protected and some crags are restricted – check current rules with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the Moravian Karst PLA administration before visiting.

Part of South Moravia, Moravian Karst has 1344 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

At Holštejn, climbing out onto the top of the cliffs is banned.

Moravian Karst PLA – climbing only on permitted rocks. Some crags may be climbed only in the second half of the year; details in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

Sloup 368 routes Holštejn 250 routes Josefovské údolí - okolí Býčí skály 246 routes Žleby 237 routes Rudické propadání 130 routes Skály v údolí Říčky 89 routes Lažánky 13 routes Výrovka 11 routes
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4+
B-sektor
Rocks of the Czech Republic Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-
Macocha - vrchol
L1 (8-): Up the wall to the right of the Rajta-tydli entry (3 bolts) to the Vifikundace… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Macocha - vrchol
Original classification V A1 Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Macocha - vrchol
L1 (7+): From the right side of the small cave, up walls (2 pitons, slings) to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Macocha - vrchol
Up the wall along an indistinct recess directly into the Vifikundace overhang (bolt). Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Macocha - vrchol
L1 (8+): From the first pitch of Zábranský's route (bolt) up to the ledge and further… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Macocha - vrchol
Original classification V+ A0 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Macocha - vrchol
Original classification V A1 Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
7+
Macocha - vrchol
Original classification IV A1 Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
6+
Macocha - vrchol
L1 (6): From the half of the first pitch of Zábranský's route, traverse along the ledge…
5+
Macocha - vrchol
From the first belay of Zábranský's route, go right along the ledge for about five meters…
6+
Macocha - vrchol
From the second belay of Zábranský's route, directly up the crack (3 bolts, pitons,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +8
7-
Macocha - vrchol
Original classification V A0
7-
Macocha - vrchol
From the middle of the first pitch of "Vršek Macochy" (Plšek's route or normal route) up…
6-
Macocha - klenba
Original classification V A0 Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
7+
Macocha - vrchol
From the second belay of Zábranský's route, up a small wall to the left (piton, ring) to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
6+
Macocha - vrchol
Original classification V A1
6+
Macocha - vrchol
From the first belay of Zábranský's route, straight up the wall into a recess (crack) and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4
Macocha - klenba
From the indistinct cave of the first pitch of the Winter Kingdom, through the cave… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
?
Macocha - klenba
From the ramp of the Winter Kingdom via a chimney, later a crack over overhangs and a…
5
Macocha - klenba
Through the center of the arch along a prominent recess into the Klenba cave, then left…
5+
Macocha - klenba
Via a ramp in the right part of the wall to its end and further along a recess into the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
8-
Macocha - klenba
From the first belay of Sokolíky, same as Jáma and Kyvadlo, seven meters and then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow +1
7
Macocha - klenba
From the first belay of Sokolíky to the right to the corner of the Noon Discoverers'… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow +1
5
Macocha - klenba
Through a crack to the left of Přiklepový Ceiling, later up the wall and traverse a crack… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
?
Macocha - klenba
L1 (6+): From the ledge of the Spodek Macochy route via a slab over an overhang (bolts)… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
?
Macocha - klenba
Immediately to the right of the mesh (net). The first two pitches are independent, then…
5
Macocha - klenba
Two pitches shared with Klenba, then straight up the ceilings into the niche above the…
8
Macocha - klenba
From the Sokolíky ledge, straight up the wall (6 bolts) to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow +1
8+/9-
Macocha - klenba
from Sokolíky up the wall between Jáma and Kyvadlo and the vari-vari route via 8 bolts to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow +1

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