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Climbing at Moravian Karst

1344 routes
8 areas
2+–12 grades

The Moravian Karst is a limestone protected landscape area north of Brno near Blansko, covering about 92 km². The landscape is made of gorges, rock walls and around 1,100 caves and abysses; five cave systems are open to the public, among them the Punkva Caves discovered by Karel Absolon. The best-known feature is the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, formed when the roof of a cave chamber collapsed, where the Punkva river disappears underground. Marked hiking and cycling trails cross the area.

Climbing is concentrated on the rock walls of the valleys; the best known is Holštejn, with overhanging and vertical walls, often with long run-outs, and hundreds of boulder problems – it is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic. The limestone can be quite slippery and needs precise footwork and strong fingers; some easier routes are polished and sparsely bolted, so Holštejn is not ideal for complete beginners. The whole area is protected and some crags are restricted – check current rules with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the Moravian Karst PLA administration before visiting.

Part of South Moravia, Moravian Karst has 1344 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

At Holštejn, climbing out onto the top of the cliffs is banned.

Moravian Karst PLA – climbing only on permitted rocks. Some crags may be climbed only in the second half of the year; details in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

9-
Beran a rorejsi
Original classification V+ A2
7+
Beran a rorejsi
L1 from the cave traverse to the first Rorejs stand, L2 traverse back and up the corner… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Beran a rorejsi
With a direct New Approach straight into the second pitch of Hýskovy Rorejsy and its… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Beran a rorejsi
To the right of Diretta through a hole with a double bolt, right into a hole and left to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Beran a rorejsi
Approach via Náskok route, from the second belay diagonally right along colored bolts… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Beran a rorejsi
Original classification V A2e, RP T. Pilka, 1985 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Beran a rorejsi
Approach to the right of the original. At the fourth, the route rejoins Diretta. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Beran a rorejsi
Original classification IV A2e Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Beran a rorejsi
From the last cave, traverse left along the roof into the corner, along it and right up…
5
Beran a rorejsi
From the Okovy belay, or from Nebeský kout to the advanced belay on the ledge. Further… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
7+
Beran a rorejsi
Same as Diretissima to the sloping ledge and then straight over the overhang and directly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Beran a rorejsi
From the second belay of Hýska, left through the corner (2bh) under the overhang and from… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Beran a rorejsi
Original classification V A1e Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Beran a rorejsi
Original classification VI A0 Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
9-
Beran a rorejsi
Via Direttisima route to the last belay before the first stance, from there directly up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Beran a rorejsi
To the right of Okovy. Directly up the middle of the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Beran a rorejsi
Approach via Okovy route - direct variation to the first rappel anchor of Okovy, from… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Beran a rorejsi
First pitch 8- Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Beran a rorejsi
Approach via Okovy route, from the second belay directly up through a hole over a bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Beran a rorejsi
Connection of Alpha Centauri and Staré páky routes. Connection of Alpha Centauri and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Beran a rorejsi
Between Alfa and Propaganda or also second to the right of Kouřilky. Clipping a new eye… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Beran a rorejsi
Nice, technical line to the right of Kouřilky Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Beran a rorejsi
First route to the left of the triangular rock outcrop. Directly upwards. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
?
Beran a rorejsi
From the second belay of Kouřilky, directly upwards. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Beran a rorejsi
Description missing. Original classification V A2, First pitch 7+ Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-/9
Beran a rorejsi
From the first belay of Kouřilky, right to the piton and directly over four bolts to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+/10-
Beran a rorejsi
L2 10- Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+/10-
Beran a rorejsi
Start with an overhang to the right of Styx, then it connects into it (second protection)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Beran a rorejsi
Overhangs to the left of Styx to the third belay of Kouřilka. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Beran a rorejsi
Original classification VI A0 Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3

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