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Climbing at Moravian Karst

1344 routes
8 areas
2+–12 grades

The Moravian Karst is a limestone protected landscape area north of Brno near Blansko, covering about 92 km². The landscape is made of gorges, rock walls and around 1,100 caves and abysses; five cave systems are open to the public, among them the Punkva Caves discovered by Karel Absolon. The best-known feature is the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, formed when the roof of a cave chamber collapsed, where the Punkva river disappears underground. Marked hiking and cycling trails cross the area.

Climbing is concentrated on the rock walls of the valleys; the best known is Holštejn, with overhanging and vertical walls, often with long run-outs, and hundreds of boulder problems – it is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic. The limestone can be quite slippery and needs precise footwork and strong fingers; some easier routes are polished and sparsely bolted, so Holštejn is not ideal for complete beginners. The whole area is protected and some crags are restricted – check current rules with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the Moravian Karst PLA administration before visiting.

Part of South Moravia, Moravian Karst has 1344 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

At Holštejn, climbing out onto the top of the cliffs is banned.

Moravian Karst PLA – climbing only on permitted rocks. Some crags may be climbed only in the second half of the year; details in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

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Kůň a policejní
Cave from the left. Winter route. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
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Kůň a policejní
In the left part at the right end of the overhang up cracks and slabs. Winter route. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
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Kůň a policejní
Up the middle of the slabs to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
4+
Kůň a policejní
Variant from the first belay of the Horse to the right on the slab. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4-
Kůň a policejní
Rock Climbing
4-
Kůň a policejní
Rock Climbing
7
Nad vodárnou
Original classification V- A1 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4-
Kůň a policejní
Along the left ridge of the entire Horse all the way up to the saddle. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
7
Nad vodárnou
Over two belays/protection points and then right into the route Kamenné spodky (Stone… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Nad vodárnou
Directly up the wall and over the final overhang to the ledge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Nad vodárnou
Over the overhang and a vertical wall to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Nad vodárnou
To the right of the Hourglass. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Henryho stěna
From the stone down and a laid corner to the slab. Go right around the small tree and to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
7
Nad vodárnou
To the right of the cave onto a sloping ledge and along it over three bolts left into a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4-
Nad vodárnou
Start the same way as the path Next to the entrance to the small tree, from there left… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5
Nad vodárnou
To the left of the entrance to the small tree, to the tree and right into the corner and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
8+/9-
Henryho stěna
Start right from the stone. First up then traverse left and back into the corner.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7
Henryho stěna
From the stone slightly right on your own protection. A piton at the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
5+
Henryho stěna
From the stone down and a laid corner and over the overhang. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
6+
Henryho stěna
Original classification V A0 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +6
7-
Henryho stěna
Start right of Fery's route up to Normálka on the ledge, then left of Normálka along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Henryho stěna
From the Normálka belay through the middle of the overhang over large holds. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9-
Henryho stěna
From the Normálka belay to the right of the corner on the overhanging wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Henryho stěna
Variant of the Normálka start - further to the right. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
6+
Henryho stěna
Via Normálka and then up the pitons to the edge and it nv. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Henryho stěna
Via Normálka and the route Přeslechy under the overhanging belly. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Henryho stěna
Over one bolt to the ledge, along it to the right to the belay and up the corner nv. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +6
10+
Henryho stěna
Through the black band of rock to the left of Weissbier over two bolts. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Henryho stěna
Technical power boulder in the overhang, sustained finish. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Henryho stěna
Original classification IV A2 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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