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Climbing at Moravian Karst

1344 routes
8 areas
2+–12 grades

The Moravian Karst is a limestone protected landscape area north of Brno near Blansko, covering about 92 km². The landscape is made of gorges, rock walls and around 1,100 caves and abysses; five cave systems are open to the public, among them the Punkva Caves discovered by Karel Absolon. The best-known feature is the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, formed when the roof of a cave chamber collapsed, where the Punkva river disappears underground. Marked hiking and cycling trails cross the area.

Climbing is concentrated on the rock walls of the valleys; the best known is Holštejn, with overhanging and vertical walls, often with long run-outs, and hundreds of boulder problems – it is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic. The limestone can be quite slippery and needs precise footwork and strong fingers; some easier routes are polished and sparsely bolted, so Holštejn is not ideal for complete beginners. The whole area is protected and some crags are restricted – check current rules with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the Moravian Karst PLA administration before visiting.

Part of South Moravia, Moravian Karst has 1344 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

At Holštejn, climbing out onto the top of the cliffs is banned.

Moravian Karst PLA – climbing only on permitted rocks. Some crags may be climbed only in the second half of the year; details in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

9+/10-
Beran a rorejsi
Start with an overhang to the right of Styx, then it connects into it (second protection)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Beran a rorejsi
From the second belay of Velký Beran directly to the reddish piton, up and to the right… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5
Beran a rorejsi
From the 2nd belay of Velký Beran diagonally left, into the corner. Then onto a ledge… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
8
Beran a rorejsi
L1: to the left of alleluia up the wall to the Beran ledge (8), L2: to the left of… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5+
Beran a rorejsi
From the hardest point of Velký Beran directly upwards through a slightly overhanging… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
7
Beran a rorejsi
Up a sloping ramp into the cave, to the right on a ledge and then directly over an…
8
Beran a rorejsi
Original classification V A2 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Beran a rorejsi
Through the middle of the right wall of Beran. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Beran a rorejsi
Up a vertical corner technically nv. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Beran a rorejsi
To the right of the edge of Starý kozel, diagonally up a broken, overgrown wall to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
8-
Beran a rorejsi
Original classification V+ A1, RP D. Janák, 2009 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Beran a rorejsi
Start like Malý beran, but do not enter the cave, but from the left into the pseudo… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
6
Beran a rorejsi
Rock Climbing Route on sun
3
Beran a rorejsi
L1: Traverse through the small cave to its top (belay), L2: From the cave to the right …
4
Beran a rorejsi
Along an overgrown, sloping gully. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6
Kůň a policejní
From the Cave (right) right along the edge to the piton and into the corner, through it… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
4
Kůň a policejní
Along overgrown walls to the left of the right edge of the entire massif. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
4
Kůň a policejní
Along the overgrown right edge of the entire massif. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5-
Kůň a policejní
In the right part of the wall (friable) up by bolts into the cave, there is a summit book… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
6+
Kůň a policejní
From the cave under Rozporák via a small wall to the piton, further via a small wall over… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5
Kůň a policejní
From the cave to the right and slightly above it to the left into the corner and to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
5+
Kůň a policejní
Original classification V+ A0 Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
6+
Kůň a policejní
Original classification V A1 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
6+
Kůň a policejní
From the first protection point of Policejní (Police) slightly left under the rumbling… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4+
Kůň a policejní
Over the first three protection points of Policejní (Police), left into the broken yellow… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
5
Kůň a policejní
In the right part of the slab, via a gully to the shrub-trees (belay). Horizontally right… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
6
Kůň a policejní
Up the grassy wall (piton) right into the corner (hourglass), further right traverse to a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
5
Kůň a policejní
From the tree via a depression and right over a rock protrusion into the chimney. Up the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
5-
Kůň a policejní
Up the middle of the slabs slightly from the right to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
?
Kůň a policejní
Up the middle of the slabs to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3

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