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Svatojánská hrana - údolní var, Malý Plačtivý kámen 5+

Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones, 9. Bohemian Switzerland NP, Kyjov - Brtníky, Malý Plačtivý kámen

5+

Rock Climbing

Last updated 2024-05-12

Grade 5+

Climbing season

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No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Difficulty
5+
Rock Climbing
Location

50.92903, 14.45161

To the left of the large overhang, the overhanging wall and gully to the ring. Right behind the edge to the ring (additionally placed) and like the 'St. John's Edge' route to the summit.
Rules

Nature protection: Climbing on this rock is allowed year-round. Nature Protection Document: NPČŠ_OOP_horolezectví 2020 and a list of permitted objects, Nature Protection authority: National Park Administration of Czech Switzerland

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

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