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Climbing at Kyjov - Brtníky

495 routes
89 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Kyjov – Brtníky is a sector in the north-eastern part of Bohemian Switzerland National Park, with almost 500 routes on 89 sandstone towers – for example Malý and Velký Plačtivý kámen, Kráva, Obří hlava, Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu), Brtnický kostel, Věž Bílého potoka and Býk. Protection is traditional – rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 9. Bohemian Switzerland NP, Kyjov - Brtníky has 495 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 89 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay.

Rules

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Malý Plačtivý kámen 25 routes Velký Plačtivý kámen 21 routes Kráva 13 routes Obří hlava 12 routes Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu) 11 routes Brtnický kostel 11 routes Věž Bílého potoka 11 routes Býk 11 routes Brtnický kámen 10 routes Náhodná věž 10 routes Tlustá teta 10 routes Němý svědek 10 routes Zámecká věž 9 routes Tři stoly 9 routes Slunovratový kámen (Trojče) 9 routes Martinova věž 8 routes Kuncova stěna (Rákosová stěna) 8 routes Dvojitá věž 7 routes Loupežník 7 routes Poradní skála 7 routes Brtnická stěna 7 routes Volská stěna 7 routes Velbloudí věž 7 routes Rybářská bašta 7 routes Velký muž 6 routes Převislá věž 6 routes Korunková jehla 6 routes Orlí věž 6 routes Vyhlídka 6 routes Dietrichův kámen 6 routes Vlk 6 routes Hradní jehla 6 routes Kyjovský král 5 routes Meloun 5 routes Železná věž 5 routes Kohoutí věž 5 routes Zadní kužel 5 routes Strážce Temného dolu 5 routes Hraniční kámen 5 routes Zpustlý kastelán 5 routes Jarní věž 5 routes Sněhová královna 5 routes Borový kámen 5 routes Tlustá paní 5 routes Bivoj 5 routes Domov důchodců 4 routes Strážce Malého krkavčího dolu 4 routes Velká medvědice 4 routes Černokněžník 4 routes Smrtka 4 routes Stěna nad ohništěm 4 routes Malý muž 4 routes Volská věž 4 routes Markétina věž (Kopretinová věž) 4 routes Rákosník 4 routes Křinická branka 4 routes Vodník 4 routes Vůl 4 routes Pašerák 4 routes Drahokam 4 routes Říjnová (Říjná) jehla 4 routes Strážce Šternberka (Lesní duch) 4 routes Volský kužel 3 routes Železná ostrožna 3 routes Svíčka 3 routes Lahvička 3 routes Vlčí doupě 3 routes Temný kámen (Hejkal) 3 routes Kastelánka 3 routes Krtek 3 routes Lísková věž 3 routes Strážce klenotnice 3 routes Hraniční jehla 3 routes Pytel 3 routes Brtnička 3 routes Temná jehla 3 routes Tlustý strýc (Pachole) 3 routes Malý zbrojnoš 2 routes Čertův kámen 2 routes Pavučinový hrad 2 routes Veverka 2 routes Výspa Bílého potoka 2 routes Computer 2 routes Žhář 2 routes Schovanka 2 routes Paleček 2 routes Giselina skála 2 routes Strážce Žabiho rohu 1 routes Homolka 1 routes
5
Pašerák
By the edge to the left of the chimney and to the left to the balcony. By the old route… Rock Climbing
4-
Pašerák
Between the tower and the "Pytel" tower chimneying to the balcony on the "Pytel" tower.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Pašerák
From the overhang of "Old Route" traverse to the right to the balcony, slightly through… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Pašerák
Chimneying between the Pašerák tower and the Pytel tower to the balcony on Pytel.… Rock Climbing
4-
Žhář
Through the crack in the middle of the SE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Žhář
From the block near the uphill edge step over and through the wall over the balcony to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Temný kámen (Hejkal)
In the downhill wall, from the block by placing it into the crack, through it and to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Strážce Temného dolu
Start about 3 m to the right of "Old Route" through a slightly overhanging wall over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Železná ostrožna
Start on the left in the S wall through the chimney to the saddle, step over to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Železná ostrožna
From the left upper edge traverse to the left, until you reach the valley edge into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Strážce Žabiho rohu
At the NE edge (positioned) and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Brtnička
From the right of the massif, descend, jump to the pulpit and like the "Upland Route" to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Brtnička
To the left of the North edge, a ferruginous face to the pulpit and edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Kyjovský král
East edge directly to the top via a ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kyjovský král
Chimney between the massif and the tower into a wide, sloping crack (ring). Crack on the… Rock Climbing
4+
Vůl
In the South face, up the crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Volská stěna
Up the West edge to the crack. Up the crack and fissure to the ledge. Traverse right … Rock Climbing
5+
Volská stěna
On the wall of the adjacent massif, right to the rib, then overcome the overhang with a… Rock Climbing
3
Volská stěna
Through the middle of the downhill wall, following the crack and chimney of the Old Route. Rock Climbing
3
Volská stěna
From the upper edge, through the chimney. Rock Climbing
5
Volská stěna
On the left side of the upper wall, up the corner to the ledge and traverse left to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Volská stěna
From the chimney, take the Old Route ledge to the left towards the 'clocks'. Up the crack… Rock Climbing
6-
Volská stěna
On the left side of the upper wall, using the gap between the tower and the massif, and… Rock Climbing
4+
Jarní věž
From the start of the Social Security route, diagonally left across the wall to the ring.… Rock Climbing
4+
Jarní věž
In the North face, directly up the prominent corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Jarní věž
Approximately in the middle of the West face, directly with an iron plate over a small… Rock Climbing
5
Jarní věž
On the right side of the North face, climb the overhanging crack to the balcony and then… Rock Climbing
5+
Vyhlídka
Edge on the left into the route "West Chimney" directly to the summit. Unprotected! Rock Climbing
2+
Jarní věž
From the west massif, descend and then up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Vyhlídka
Description missing Rock Climbing

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