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Climbing at Kyjov - Brtníky

495 routes
89 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Kyjov – Brtníky is a sector in the north-eastern part of Bohemian Switzerland National Park, with almost 500 routes on 89 sandstone towers – for example Malý and Velký Plačtivý kámen, Kráva, Obří hlava, Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu), Brtnický kostel, Věž Bílého potoka and Býk. Protection is traditional – rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 9. Bohemian Switzerland NP, Kyjov - Brtníky has 495 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 89 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay.

Rules

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Malý Plačtivý kámen 25 routes Velký Plačtivý kámen 21 routes Kráva 13 routes Obří hlava 12 routes Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu) 11 routes Brtnický kostel 11 routes Věž Bílého potoka 11 routes Býk 11 routes Brtnický kámen 10 routes Náhodná věž 10 routes Tlustá teta 10 routes Němý svědek 10 routes Zámecká věž 9 routes Tři stoly 9 routes Slunovratový kámen (Trojče) 9 routes Martinova věž 8 routes Kuncova stěna (Rákosová stěna) 8 routes Dvojitá věž 7 routes Loupežník 7 routes Poradní skála 7 routes Brtnická stěna 7 routes Volská stěna 7 routes Velbloudí věž 7 routes Rybářská bašta 7 routes Velký muž 6 routes Převislá věž 6 routes Korunková jehla 6 routes Orlí věž 6 routes Vyhlídka 6 routes Dietrichův kámen 6 routes Vlk 6 routes Hradní jehla 6 routes Kyjovský král 5 routes Meloun 5 routes Železná věž 5 routes Kohoutí věž 5 routes Zadní kužel 5 routes Strážce Temného dolu 5 routes Hraniční kámen 5 routes Zpustlý kastelán 5 routes Jarní věž 5 routes Sněhová královna 5 routes Borový kámen 5 routes Tlustá paní 5 routes Bivoj 5 routes Domov důchodců 4 routes Strážce Malého krkavčího dolu 4 routes Velká medvědice 4 routes Černokněžník 4 routes Smrtka 4 routes Stěna nad ohništěm 4 routes Malý muž 4 routes Volská věž 4 routes Markétina věž (Kopretinová věž) 4 routes Rákosník 4 routes Křinická branka 4 routes Vodník 4 routes Vůl 4 routes Pašerák 4 routes Drahokam 4 routes Říjnová (Říjná) jehla 4 routes Strážce Šternberka (Lesní duch) 4 routes Volský kužel 3 routes Železná ostrožna 3 routes Svíčka 3 routes Lahvička 3 routes Vlčí doupě 3 routes Temný kámen (Hejkal) 3 routes Kastelánka 3 routes Krtek 3 routes Lísková věž 3 routes Strážce klenotnice 3 routes Hraniční jehla 3 routes Pytel 3 routes Brtnička 3 routes Temná jehla 3 routes Tlustý strýc (Pachole) 3 routes Malý zbrojnoš 2 routes Čertův kámen 2 routes Pavučinový hrad 2 routes Veverka 2 routes Výspa Bílého potoka 2 routes Computer 2 routes Žhář 2 routes Schovanka 2 routes Paleček 2 routes Giselina skála 2 routes Strážce Žabiho rohu 1 route Homolka 1 route
5+
Vyhlídka
Edge on the left into the route "West Chimney" directly to the summit. Unprotected! Rock Climbing
3
Vyhlídka
In the upper wall, a gully on the right. Rock Climbing
4+
Vyhlídka
By the southeast edge and face. Rock Climbing
4-
Vyhlídka
A crack on the left in the upper wall. Rock Climbing
4-
Veverka
From the northwest, through a gully to the balcony, then up the wall along the North Edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Krtek
In the west face, briefly through a corner and left along the edge to a hole. Traverse… Rock Climbing
4-
Krtek
By the southwest edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Čertův kámen
At the east edge, a crack leads to a separate plateau, then left along the edge over 3… Rock Climbing
5
Čertův kámen
In the valley wall, via a prominent right-angled corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Krtek
Through the chimney between the east massif and the tower to the "clock". Traversing left… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Strážce klenotnice
From the neighboring small tower, jump to the balcony and up the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Computer
From the Northern Chimney between the tower and the massif, higher up via a couloir to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Černokněžník
Along the plateau's left edge, up a crack and chimney over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce klenotnice
From the plateau side, a gully to the balcony and right a gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Černokněžník
Descent from the massif, briefly a lieback and right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Černokněžník
In the lower wall, a gully to the bolt, up the left edge past another 2 bolts to the… Rock Climbing
5
Černokněžník
From the 3rd bolt traverse left to the pine tree, up the wall to the edge and along it to… Rock Climbing
6-
Zámecká věž
On the left in the E wall, wall to the ring and left wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Zámecká věž
Start with the Menuet route, then crack running to the right to the ring. Overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Zámecká věž
From the massif, descend to the right through a chimney to the ledge, overhang and right… Rock Climbing
4+
Zámecká věž
Along the uphill edge upwards, traverse to the right and chimney to the overhang of the… Rock Climbing
6-
Zámecká věž
To the right of the Shadow Wall, over a bolt, higher to the right, wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Zámecká věž
On the left in the S wall, briefly corner to the ledge, left behind the edge and over the… Rock Climbing
5+
Zámecká věž
On the right in the NE wall, diagonally right with a corner to the ring and left behind… Rock Climbing
5
Zámecká věž
On the left of the W edge, wall diagonally to the right and edge over the ring to the… Rock Climbing
5
Zámecká věž
In the uphill wall, crack to the balcony and like Zámecká cesta to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Domov důchodců
Far left from the chimney between the tower and the massif, a notch traverse to the SW… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Domov důchodců
Far right in the chimney between the tower and the massif, a small groove and face,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Domov důchodců
Descent through the center of the massif, jump to a step and face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Domov důchodců
On the right from the massif, descend by a groove and fall and by a groove to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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