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Climbing at Kyjov - Brtníky

495 routes
89 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Kyjov – Brtníky is a sector in the north-eastern part of Bohemian Switzerland National Park, with almost 500 routes on 89 sandstone towers – for example Malý and Velký Plačtivý kámen, Kráva, Obří hlava, Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu), Brtnický kostel, Věž Bílého potoka and Býk. Protection is traditional – rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 9. Bohemian Switzerland NP, Kyjov - Brtníky has 495 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 89 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay.

Rules

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Malý Plačtivý kámen 25 routes Velký Plačtivý kámen 21 routes Kráva 13 routes Obří hlava 12 routes Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu) 11 routes Brtnický kostel 11 routes Věž Bílého potoka 11 routes Býk 11 routes Brtnický kámen 10 routes Náhodná věž 10 routes Tlustá teta 10 routes Němý svědek 10 routes Zámecká věž 9 routes Tři stoly 9 routes Slunovratový kámen (Trojče) 9 routes Martinova věž 8 routes Kuncova stěna (Rákosová stěna) 8 routes Dvojitá věž 7 routes Loupežník 7 routes Poradní skála 7 routes Brtnická stěna 7 routes Volská stěna 7 routes Velbloudí věž 7 routes Rybářská bašta 7 routes Velký muž 6 routes Převislá věž 6 routes Korunková jehla 6 routes Orlí věž 6 routes Vyhlídka 6 routes Dietrichův kámen 6 routes Vlk 6 routes Hradní jehla 6 routes Kyjovský král 5 routes Meloun 5 routes Železná věž 5 routes Kohoutí věž 5 routes Zadní kužel 5 routes Strážce Temného dolu 5 routes Hraniční kámen 5 routes Zpustlý kastelán 5 routes Jarní věž 5 routes Sněhová královna 5 routes Borový kámen 5 routes Tlustá paní 5 routes Bivoj 5 routes Domov důchodců 4 routes Strážce Malého krkavčího dolu 4 routes Velká medvědice 4 routes Černokněžník 4 routes Smrtka 4 routes Stěna nad ohništěm 4 routes Malý muž 4 routes Volská věž 4 routes Markétina věž (Kopretinová věž) 4 routes Rákosník 4 routes Křinická branka 4 routes Vodník 4 routes Vůl 4 routes Pašerák 4 routes Drahokam 4 routes Říjnová (Říjná) jehla 4 routes Strážce Šternberka (Lesní duch) 4 routes Volský kužel 3 routes Železná ostrožna 3 routes Svíčka 3 routes Lahvička 3 routes Vlčí doupě 3 routes Temný kámen (Hejkal) 3 routes Kastelánka 3 routes Krtek 3 routes Lísková věž 3 routes Strážce klenotnice 3 routes Hraniční jehla 3 routes Pytel 3 routes Brtnička 3 routes Temná jehla 3 routes Tlustý strýc (Pachole) 3 routes Malý zbrojnoš 2 routes Čertův kámen 2 routes Pavučinový hrad 2 routes Veverka 2 routes Výspa Bílého potoka 2 routes Computer 2 routes Žhář 2 routes Schovanka 2 routes Paleček 2 routes Giselina skála 2 routes Strážce Žabiho rohu 1 route Homolka 1 route
5+
Převislá věž
Via a small corner climb directly to the ring. Rock Climbing
5
Převislá věž
Build up in the western wall to a crack, follow it to a balcony, and climb the wall to… Rock Climbing
5
Loupežník
Through the center of the southwest wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Loupežník
From the massif jump directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Loupežník
In the valley wall diagonally left across the wall to the south edge and to the ring.… Rock Climbing
4-
Loupežník
From the massif descend to the ledge, step over and up the northern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Loupežník
By opposition between the tower and the massif to the ring and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Loupežník
South edge over the ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Loupežník
Northern (W) edge over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Malý muž
In the North face, up the narrow overhanging wall and the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Malý muž
Up the upper (South) face directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Malý muž
From the East face, up the wall to the balcony, up the overhanging wall and the gully to… Rock Climbing
4-
Malý muž
Up the overhanging West face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Kráva
To the left of the Downhill Gully, up the wall past 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kráva
To the left of the Mravenčí pilíř route, up the wall and flat corner past the ring to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kráva
3 m to the right of the Downhill Gully, up the wall to the pillar wall. Up the smooth… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kráva
In the center of the uphill wall, up the fissure to the saddle and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Kráva
In the center of the downhill wall, up the chimney with the overhanging start and the… Rock Climbing
6-
Kráva
From the ring, up the fissure to the right and like the Cejch route to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Kráva
From the NW, up the chimney to the pillar and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Kráva
2 m to the left of the Cejch route, up the corner and the wall to the right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Kráva
To the left of the Old Route, directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Brtnický kostel
From the N, descend from the adjacent massif and up the uphill Eastern edge directly to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Brtnický kostel
From the left in the SW face, along the ledge to the large overgrown corner, then to the… Rock Climbing
3
Brtnický kostel
To the right of the downhill pillar, up the narrowing overgrown crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Paleček
In the uphill face, up the wide crack. Rock Climbing
5+
Paleček
On the right in the E face, up to the ring and diagonally left across the wall over the… Rock Climbing
4-
Smrtka
From the start of the Old Route, up a crack to a platform and then along the Old Route. Rock Climbing
5+
Smrtka
To the left of the old route, up a crack and left to the ring. By bridging and a crack to… Rock Climbing
4-
Smrtka
Up a crack in the massif to a chimney and then a gap between the massif and the tower to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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