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Climbing at Kyjov - Brtníky

495 routes
89 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Kyjov – Brtníky is a sector in the north-eastern part of Bohemian Switzerland National Park, with almost 500 routes on 89 sandstone towers – for example Malý and Velký Plačtivý kámen, Kráva, Obří hlava, Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu), Brtnický kostel, Věž Bílého potoka and Býk. Protection is traditional – rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 9. Bohemian Switzerland NP, Kyjov - Brtníky has 495 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 89 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay.

Rules

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Malý Plačtivý kámen 25 routes Velký Plačtivý kámen 21 routes Kráva 13 routes Obří hlava 12 routes Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu) 11 routes Brtnický kostel 11 routes Věž Bílého potoka 11 routes Býk 11 routes Brtnický kámen 10 routes Náhodná věž 10 routes Tlustá teta 10 routes Němý svědek 10 routes Zámecká věž 9 routes Tři stoly 9 routes Slunovratový kámen (Trojče) 9 routes Martinova věž 8 routes Kuncova stěna (Rákosová stěna) 8 routes Dvojitá věž 7 routes Loupežník 7 routes Poradní skála 7 routes Brtnická stěna 7 routes Volská stěna 7 routes Velbloudí věž 7 routes Rybářská bašta 7 routes Velký muž 6 routes Převislá věž 6 routes Korunková jehla 6 routes Orlí věž 6 routes Vyhlídka 6 routes Dietrichův kámen 6 routes Vlk 6 routes Hradní jehla 6 routes Kyjovský král 5 routes Meloun 5 routes Železná věž 5 routes Kohoutí věž 5 routes Zadní kužel 5 routes Strážce Temného dolu 5 routes Hraniční kámen 5 routes Zpustlý kastelán 5 routes Jarní věž 5 routes Sněhová královna 5 routes Borový kámen 5 routes Tlustá paní 5 routes Bivoj 5 routes Domov důchodců 4 routes Strážce Malého krkavčího dolu 4 routes Velká medvědice 4 routes Černokněžník 4 routes Smrtka 4 routes Stěna nad ohništěm 4 routes Malý muž 4 routes Volská věž 4 routes Markétina věž (Kopretinová věž) 4 routes Rákosník 4 routes Křinická branka 4 routes Vodník 4 routes Vůl 4 routes Pašerák 4 routes Drahokam 4 routes Říjnová (Říjná) jehla 4 routes Strážce Šternberka (Lesní duch) 4 routes Volský kužel 3 routes Železná ostrožna 3 routes Svíčka 3 routes Lahvička 3 routes Vlčí doupě 3 routes Temný kámen (Hejkal) 3 routes Kastelánka 3 routes Krtek 3 routes Lísková věž 3 routes Strážce klenotnice 3 routes Hraniční jehla 3 routes Pytel 3 routes Brtnička 3 routes Temná jehla 3 routes Tlustý strýc (Pachole) 3 routes Malý zbrojnoš 2 routes Čertův kámen 2 routes Pavučinový hrad 2 routes Veverka 2 routes Výspa Bílého potoka 2 routes Computer 2 routes Žhář 2 routes Schovanka 2 routes Paleček 2 routes Giselina skála 2 routes Strážce Žabiho rohu 1 route Homolka 1 route
6
Stěna nad ohništěm
In the center of the valley's overhanging wall, first to the left, then to the right over… Rock Climbing
6-
Velký Plačtivý kámen
To the left of the chimney in the East Face, go from the left to the edge and follow that… Rock Climbing
4+
Velký Plačtivý kámen
On the "White Wall" route, higher up below the bolt, traverse left into a chimney and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Velký Plačtivý kámen
Follow the Valley Route to the 2nd bolt, traverse left, and climb the wall diagonally… Rock Climbing
2+
Malý Plačtivý kámen
In the E wall, the right chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Malý Plačtivý kámen
To the left of the Eastern Chimney, crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Malý Plačtivý kámen
To the left of the large overhang, the overhanging wall and gully to the ring. Right… Rock Climbing
4-
Malý Plačtivý kámen
To the left of the Old Route, climb the wall and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Velbloudí věž
Uphill edge (ring). Rock Climbing
4+
Velbloudí věž
Take the edge of the boulder to the right of the south chimney onto the boulder and then… Rock Climbing
5+
Velbloudí věž
To the right of the Erární variant, take the wall to the boulder and then take the Old… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Vlk
From the massif, descend to a balcony and jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Strážce Malého krkavčího dolu
From the uphill side (building) onto a pointed ledge and then left up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce Malého krkavčího dolu
From the uphill side, take the wall to the right towards the pine tree and then the N… Rock Climbing
5
Vlk
"The Old Route" to the ledge, along it to the right and by stemming to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vlk
Via the chimney between the Double Tower and the tower to the right onto a ledge. Via a… Rock Climbing
4+
Vlk
On the right in the uphill wall, via the chimney between the tower and the direct chimney… Rock Climbing
4+
Vlk
In the massif, descend via a crack, step across and by stemming to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Dvojitá věž
In the southwest wall, climb a slanting chimney to a ledge, via a small crack to the ring… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Dvojitá věž
On the right in the north wall, straight up and right to the second ring of route f).… Rock Climbing
4+
Vlk
Via the chimney between the tower and the massif to a ledge, via the South edge build up… Rock Climbing
6
Dvojitá věž
Via the valley-side wall, over small holes on the right, then left to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Dvojitá věž
From the south, build up and climb the wall to the pre-summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Dvojitá věž
North wall of the pre-summit, build up near the pine tree. Rock Climbing
3
Dvojitá věž
From the northeast, via a chimney between the massif and the tower to a balcony. Build up… Rock Climbing
4+
Dvojitá věž
Via the northern chimney to the lower summit and by a jump or fall to the summit. Poorly… Rock Climbing
5+
Převislá věž
Briefly along the southeast edge and after a flake, traverse right to the ring. Via a… Rock Climbing
5
Převislá věž
Northeast edge over the overhang and edge to the ring. Along the edge into a groove. Via… Rock Climbing
4+
Převislá věž
Building up in the north wall and a wide crack in the middle wall. Rock Climbing
5+
Převislá věž
Via a small corner climb directly to the ring. Rock Climbing

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