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Monte Agner - Nordkante - Agnerkante

Italy | Trentino-South Tyrol | Dolomites | Monte Agner

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Overview

Grade: 6+

Total time: 17 hrs

Climbing time: 13 hrs

Approach time: 3 hrs

Exit time: 1 hour

Show topo Route topo

Length: 1,900m

Rope Length: 60m

Quickdraws: 10

The Agnerkante (Nordkante) on Monte Agner, a formidable peak in the Dolomites' Pale di San Martino group, stands as one of the most iconic and longest alpine rock climbs in the Alps. Graded UIAA 6+, it presents a truly epic challenge. With over 1000 meters of vertical gain, the route demands exceptional endurance, solid climbing technique across varied terrain—from exposed slabs and strenuous cracks to airy pillars and chimneys—and robust alpine experience. The climbing is consistently engaging, often airy, and culminates in breathtaking exposure. Despite its length, the rock quality is generally excellent, making for superb climbing. Ascending the Agnerkante is not merely about executing moves; it's a full-day commitment, requiring efficient rope work, careful route-finding, and an unwavering mental fortitude. The descent from the summit of Monte Agner is also long and complex, adding to the overall seriousness of the undertaking. This route is a true test piece, offering an unforgettable adventure and unparalleled views of the surrounding Dolomitic landscape to those prepared for its grandeur and demands.

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