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Via Normale - Normalweg - Monte Pelmo

Italy | Trentino-South Tyrol | Dolomites | Monte Pelmo

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Overview

Grade: 2

Total time: 10 hrs

Climbing time: 5 hrs

Approach time: 4 hrs

Exit time: 2 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 970m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 5

Climbing the 'Via Normale' (Normal Route) on Monte Pelmo, often referred to as 'God's Throne' due to its unique shape, is a classic and historically significant ascent in the Dolomites. Graded II UIAA, it's not a technical rock climb in the modern sense, but rather a demanding alpine scramble and hike requiring good physical condition and a strong head for heights.

The route involves significant exposure, particularly on sections like the famous 'Cengia di Ball' (Ball Ledge), a broad but very airy traverse. Climbers navigate loose scree, rocky ledges, and steep gulleys, relying on cairns and a good sense of route-finding. While not requiring advanced climbing techniques, sure-footedness, excellent stamina, and absolute absence of vertigo are essential. This is a full-day commitment, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding Dolomite peaks.

The descent usually follows the same path. It's a challenging but incredibly rewarding experience, providing a true taste of traditional alpinism away from crowded via ferratas. This route is a must for experienced hikers and scramblers looking for a genuine Dolomite adventure, embodying the spirit of the early mountaineers.

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