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Overview

Grade: 4+

Total time: 9 hrs

Climbing time: 5 hrs

Approach time: 2 hrs

Exit time: 2 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 550m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 8

Climbing the Ötscher Nordwand (North Face) on the majestic Ötscher mountain in Lower Austria is a classic alpine rock climbing experience. Graded 4+ (UIAA), it's a popular choice for climbers seeking a challenging yet accessible alpine adventure. The route typically involves multiple pitches, ascending the imposing north face, known for its solid limestone and sometimes exposed sections. Climbers can expect varied terrain, including chimneys, slabs, and ledges, often offering breathtaking views of the surrounding Mostviertel region. While not extremely difficult by modern standards, the 4+ grade in an alpine environment means it demands sure-footedness, good route-finding skills, and a sense of exposure. The rock quality is generally good, providing excellent friction. Protection possibilities are mixed, with some fixed anchors, but often requiring traditional gear placements. Reaching the summit after a successful ascent of the Nordwand offers a tremendous sense of accomplishment and panoramic vistas, with the descent usually via a marked hiking trail, completing a memorable day in the mountains.

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