Climbing "Jižní traverz" (South Traverse), a grade 5 route on the "Oldříšská plotna" (Oldříš Plate) in "Janelův lom" (Janel's Quarry), is a memorable experience. The Oldříš Plate, also known as Janel's Quarry, offers primarily slab climbing with generally good friction. "Jižní traverz" specifically presents a sustained traverse across the lower portion of the wall. The difficulty is consistent, demanding precise footwork and careful weight distribution. While not particularly strenuous in a power sense, it requires a keen eye for finding the best holds and maintaining balance. The protection is generally adequate, allowing for relatively secure climbing, though runners placed effectively are key for a smooth traverse. The ambiance of Janel's Quarry, often described as peaceful and somewhat isolated, adds to the overall enjoyment of the climb. It's a great route for climbers looking to hone their slab technique and enjoy a well-protected, moderately challenging climb in a beautiful setting.
Rules
Žďárské vrchy Protected Landscape Area
- Rock sectors of the Žďárské vrchy have the status of specially protected areas (natural monuments or reserves)
- The following applies to all sectors except Čtyři palice:
- Access to the rocks by the shortest routes from marked tourist routes
- Climbing on objects other than marked ones and outside the permitted period only with a written permit from the PLA administration
- Use magnesium only with written permission from the PLA administration - replacement and installation of belays and marking of rocks and routes only with written consent from the PLA administration
- Organizing sports, tourist and other events only with the written consent of the PLA administration
Time and other restrictions are listed for individual sectors.
OVK: first ascents are prohibited
