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Nordgrat Südgrat Pitztaler Urkund

Austria | Tyrol | Ötztal Alps | Pitztaler Urkund

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Overview

Grade: 3-

Total time: 12 hrs

Climbing time: 4 hrs

Approach time: 4 hrs

Exit time: 4 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 350m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 4

The Nordgrat-Südgrat traverse on the Pitztaler Urkund is a classic alpine ridge climb in the Pitztal region. Graded at 3- (UIAA), it's considered a relatively accessible route for experienced mountaineers, but shouldn't be underestimated. The climb typically involves a mix of exposed scrambling, easy climbing on solid rock, and potentially some snow or ice depending on the season.

The approach usually starts from a nearby hut, like the Taschachhaus, and involves a glacier crossing, which requires appropriate equipment and knowledge. The ridge itself offers stunning panoramic views of the surrounding peaks. While the technical difficulty is moderate, the exposure and length of the route demand good physical fitness, solid alpine skills, and confidence in route finding. Proper belaying techniques are essential, and some sections might require placing your own protection.

The summit of Pitztaler Urkund offers a satisfying reward after a challenging but enjoyable alpine adventure. Descent is typically via a different route, often involving rappels and further scrambling. Checking current conditions, weather forecasts, and having up-to-date route information is crucial before attempting this climb.

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