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Pichlweg Planspitze Nordwand

Austria | Styria | Ennstal Alps | Planspitze

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Overview

Grade: 3-

Total time: 11 hrs

Climbing time: 5 hrs

Approach time: 3 hrs

Exit time: 3 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 1,000m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 5

Climbing the Pichlweg on the Planspitze Nordwand (grade 3-) is a truly quintessential Dolomites experience. Located in the magnificent Sexten Dolomites, the Planspitze itself is a striking peak, and its North Face, while not presenting extreme technical difficulties on this route, offers a fantastic introduction to alpine multi-pitch climbing.

The Pichlweg, graded a comfortable 3-, is renowned for its generally good rock quality – typically solid limestone with positive holds – making for an enjoyable and surprisingly exposed ascent. It's often recommended as an ideal 'next step' for those comfortable with via ferratas but seeking the thrill of rope-led rock climbing, or simply for climbers looking for a scenic, less strenuous day out.

The route itself follows a logical line up the impressive North Face, weaving through slabs, cracks, and chimneys. While the climbing is never overly sustained at its grade, the exposure grows with every meter gained, culminating in breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding Sexten Dolomites, including the iconic Tre Cime di Lavaredo. It's a route where the overall alpine ambiance and the stunning scenery are as much a draw as the climbing itself.

After reaching the summit and soaking in the 360-degree vista, the descent usually involves rappelling and scrambling down the easier south side, often linking up with a marked path or a section of Klettersteig (via ferrata) to return to the valley floor. This completes a full, rewarding day, leaving you with memories of classic Dolomite rock, superb exposure, and unparalleled natural beauty.

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