Skip to content
You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.
< Back to List

Klukovina, Saská hlava 5+

Czech Republic, East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks, Království, Saská hlava

5+

Rock Climbing, Textile belay

Last updated 2024-05-12

Grade 5+

Climbing season

Restrictions in 6 month(s)

  • Open
  • Restricted
  • Unknown
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Community

Help improve this page

No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Difficulty
5+
Rock Climbing Textile belay
Location

50.61547, 16.10819

Parking 1 km

50.61697, 16.12254

In the left part of the valley wall, via the chimney to a block and aided move to an overgrown balcony. Left via a crack at the eastern edge to the end, via the wall left over steps and via a crack to the false summit. Via the Old Route to the summit.
Rules

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30, some towers until April 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Weather forecast
Loading Weather...

Current conditions

No condition reports in the last 30 days.

No logs yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Reviews 0
Have you climbed here?
0 people bookmarked this place
Share this route

Send it to the person you want to climb it with.

WhatsApp Facebook

Nobody to climb with?

Similar routes nearby (around grade 5+)
5+
Kozlíci z Roháčku
From NW via a crack to the pillar, left via the wall and small crack to the ring. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Cínový vojáček
From the block on the valley side by aid climbing/building and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Čaroděj
Rock Climbing
5+
Markéta
In the valley face via the right chimney to the inner pillar. Left wall (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Dagovy uši
Through the chimney between Dag's Ears and the Ark to the pillar. Descend and over a drop… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Čarodějnice adršpašská
Up the valley crack to the ring, then via a hand crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
Other climbing routes in Saská hlava
6-
Saská hlava
From SE, via a corner broken crack to an overgrown balcony. From its right edge, via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Saská hlava
In the middle of the valley wall, via a crack and chimney to an overgrown balcony. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Saská hlava
Through the upper corner chimney to the 1st ring (visible from the W. edge of the cap),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Saská hlava
From the upper side, via the chimney or corner crack to the pillar. Via a crack into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Saská hlava
From the upper fore-rock, via an overflow and small crack to a ring, aided move from a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Saská hlava
The start is below the center of the NW wall. Via a crack to a ledge, in it left, via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Saská hlava
Along the right valley edge to the 1st ring. Along the edge to the 2nd ring, via the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Saská hlava
The start is to the left of the Entrance Variant of the Old Route. Via the wall (2 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay