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Climbing at Saská hlava

9 routes
5+–7+/8- grades

Part of Království, Saská hlava has 9 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 5+ to 7+/8-. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Textile belay, Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Danger, Route in shadow.

Rules

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30, some towers until April 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

5+
Saská hlava
In the left part of the valley wall, via the chimney to a block and aided move to an… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Saská hlava
The start is to the left of the Entrance Variant of the Old Route. Via the wall (2 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Saská hlava
Along the right valley edge to the 1st ring. Along the edge to the 2nd ring, via the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Saská hlava
The start is below the center of the NW wall. Via a crack to a ledge, in it left, via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Saská hlava
From the upper side, via the chimney or corner crack to the pillar. Via a crack into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Saská hlava
Through the upper corner chimney to the 1st ring (visible from the W. edge of the cap),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Saská hlava
From the upper fore-rock, via an overflow and small crack to a ring, aided move from a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Saská hlava
From SE, via a corner broken crack to an overgrown balcony. From its right edge, via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Saská hlava
In the middle of the valley wall, via a crack and chimney to an overgrown balcony. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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