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V zajetí historických mýtů, Starosta 6+/7-

Czech Republic, East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks, Město, Starosta

6+/7-

Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay

Last updated 2024-05-12

Grade 6+/7-

Climbing season

Restrictions in 5 month(s)

  • Open
  • Restricted
  • Unknown
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
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No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Difficulty
6+/7-
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Location

50.61281, 16.11251

Parking 845 m

50.61697, 16.12254

On the NW face of the uphill pillar, via a shallow gully to a ledge (1st ring) and left behind the edge into a chimney. Overhang and crack (2nd ring) to the pillar. Aid climbing (3rd ring) and up the wall directly to the 3rd ring of the Old Route. Traverse the ledge to the 5th ring. Up the wall, crack, gully, and wall to the 6th ring. Traverse the wall right into the Old Route and via it to the summit.
Rules

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to April 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature Conservation: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1st to April 30th. Nature Conservation Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority CHKO Broumovsko (Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area)

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

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