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Climbing at Starosta

13 routes
5+–8/8+ grades

Part of Město, Starosta has 13 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 5+ to 8/8+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to April 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature Conservation: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1st to April 30th. Nature Conservation Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority CHKO Broumovsko (Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area)

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

6
Starosta
From the hiking path to the right of the north edge, via a small chimney and crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Starosta
At the eastern corner of the tower, via a crack to the block. Cracks (1st ring), right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Starosta
In the southern corner (between the Mayor and the pillar), via a crack and chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Starosta
The start is from the hiking path below the NE face. Corner crack and chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Starosta
On the NW face of the uphill pillar, via a shallow gully to a ledge (1st ring) and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Starosta
To the left of the start, via a corner crack to a small plateau. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6-
Starosta
From the left edge of the uphill corridor, by bridging to the crack and via it to a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
7-/7
Starosta
From the ledge above the overhang, up the wall along the western edge (2 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Starosta
From the 2nd ring, up the wall over the overhang, traverse right and up the wall (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Starosta
To the left of the start of the Old Route, up a chimney to the pillar and via the Old… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Starosta
At the stairs of the hiking path, via a finger crack over the 1st and 2nd rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Starosta
From the uphill side, via a crack and chimney to the pillar to the 1st ring. Overhang, …
7/7+
Starosta
To the left (corner) of Solstice to the blocks. Shallow crack to 1st ring, cracks (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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