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Steinkarspitze Direkter Südpfeiler

Austria | Tyrol | Lechtal Alps | Steinkarspitze south summit

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Overview

Grade: 6

Total time: 8 hrs

Climbing time: 3 hrs

Approach time: 3 hrs

Exit time: 3 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 240m

Rope Length: 60m

Quickdraws: 10

Climbing the "Direkter Südpfeiler" (Direct South Pillar) of the Steinkarspitze south summit is a challenging and rewarding alpine rock climb. Graded at 6 (UIAA scale, roughly equivalent to 5.10a/b in Yosemite Decimal System), it demands solid rock climbing skills, experience in alpine terrain, and good route-finding abilities.

The climb typically involves several pitches of sustained climbing on exposed rock. Expect varied climbing styles, including slab, cracks, and corners. Protection is generally considered to be good, with a mix of bolted belays and opportunities to place your own gear. A standard rack of cams and nuts is recommended.

The south summit of Steinkarspitze offers breathtaking views of the surrounding alpine landscape. However, weather conditions in the mountains can change rapidly, so it's crucial to check the forecast beforehand and be prepared for potential storms or temperature drops.

Descent often involves rappelling or downclimbing a different route, which may also require alpine climbing skills. Proper planning, preparation, and a competent team are essential for a safe and successful ascent of the "Direkter Südpfeiler."

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