Skip to content
You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.

Last updated 2024-03-26

Grade 8/8+

Climbing season

Restrictions in 5 month(s)

  • Open
  • Restricted
  • Unknown
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Community

Help improve this page

No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Difficulty
8/8+
Rock Climbing
Location

50.89122, 14.26811

Left of The Nose, up steps along the edge past a ring to a ledge. Up the wall and crack past the 2nd ring to the balcony. Up the crack like The Nose to the ledge and in the corner to the 3rd ring. Over the overhang and via the falcon crack (4th additional ring) to the large terrace. Like Tokáňské legends to the summit.
Rules

Nature protection: Climbing prohibited from 1.2. to 30.6. OP Document: NPČŠ_OOP_mountaineering 2020 and a list of permitted objects, OP body Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Weather forecast
Loading Weather...

Current conditions

No condition reports in the last 30 days.

No logs yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Reviews 0
Have you climbed here?
0 people bookmarked this place
Share this route

Send it to the person you want to climb it with.

WhatsApp Facebook

Nobody to climb with?

Similar routes nearby (around grade 8/8+)
8/8+
Velký Pravčický kužel
In the middle of the N wall directly over the 1st and 2nd rings and diagonally right the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Homole
In the center of the valley wall, slightly diagonally right to a ring. First straight,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Pravčická stěna
In the middle of the wall, by crack between the routes "Left Corner" and "Right Corner"… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Velký Pravčický kužel
Like the Valley Route to the additional ring. Via the wall and edge over 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Hlavička
In the middle of the valley wall by a crack to a ring. By an overhanging crack (sokolík)… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Malý tetřev
From the ledge on the N side of the pine tree (loop) diagonally right to the NW edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
Other climbing routes in Tetřeví výspa
9/9+
Tetřeví výspa
Right of the "Tokáňská Crack", along the edge over the 1st and 2nd bolt hangers (BH). ,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Tetřeví výspa
From the boulder on the NW side, up the wall to a ledge. Via a small corner below the… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Tetřeví výspa
Follow the Pabrek route to the 2nd K. Left to the balcony and along the S edge past 6 K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7/7+
Tetřeví výspa
As "Long Corner" to the beginning of the corner. To the right, through a crack past a… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Tetřeví výspa
From the base of the valley (NW) wall, ascend the corner to the end and traverse right… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Tetřeví výspa
About 6m right of The Nose route, up the corner and via the falcon's notch past a ring to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Tetřeví výspa
From the path on the valley side, ascend the center of the SW face towards the falcon's… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Tetřeví výspa
To the right of the Escape route, across the terraces directly up the wall past 2 K and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Tetřeví výspa
From the platform in the S wall, up the chimney to the ledge. Traverse right and like the… Rock Climbing
4+
Tetřeví výspa
Up the SE chimney, towards the end and left via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing