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Torre Juac - Via del Rifugio

Italy | Trentino-South Tyrol | Dolomites | Torre Juac

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Overview

Grade: 4

Total time: 7 hrs

Climbing time: 4 hrs

Approach time: 2 hrs

Exit time: 1 hour

Show topo Route topo

Length: 460m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 5

Climbing the "Via del Rifugio" (Grade 4) on Torre Juac is a rewarding experience, offering stunning views and a classic alpine feel. The route itself is generally well-protected with bolts, making it a good introduction to multi-pitch climbing in the Dolomites. While the grade is approachable, don't underestimate the route. Expect sustained climbing on mostly solid rock, with some sections requiring careful footwork and mindful route-finding. The crux pitches often involve stemming or delicate traverses. Good weather is essential, as exposure can be significant. Proper gear, including a rope of at least 60m, a rack of quickdraws, and possibly some slings for extending placements, is necessary. Finally, remember to check weather conditions before heading out and be prepared for a long day. The descent usually involves rappelling, so ensure you're comfortable with these techniques. Reaching the summit and enjoying the panorama after a successful ascent of the "Via del Rifugio" is a truly unforgettable experience.
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