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Bepi-Führe - Cigoladeturm (Zigoladeturm) Ostwand

Italy | Trentino-South Tyrol | Dolomites | Zigoladeturm

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Overview

Grade: 4

Total time: 5 hrs

Climbing time: 2 hrs

Approach time: 2 hrs

Exit time: 1 hour

Show topo Route topo

Length: 150m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 6

The 'Bepi-Führe' on the East Face of the Zigoladeturm (also known as Cigoladeturm) offers a quintessential Dolomite climbing experience, rated at Grade IV. Located in the majestic Civetta Group, the Zigoladeturm stands as a distinctive and attractive limestone tower, drawing climbers with its impressive walls and classic routes.

The Bepi-Führe is a multi-pitch route that perfectly embodies the spirit of traditional alpine climbing. Grade IV in the Dolomites signifies a sustained, often exposed climb on generally good rock, typically involving a mix of cracks, slabs, and sometimes chimneys. While not extreme, it demands solid rope management skills, confident climbing technique, and a keen sense of route-finding. Protection is generally good, utilizing natural features for placements of nuts and cams.

Climbing the East Face means you'll typically be in the morning sun, offering pleasant temperatures and stunning views over the surrounding peaks of the Dolomites. The exposure increases as you gain height, culminating in a panoramic vista from the summit. This route is an excellent choice for climbers looking for a rewarding day out, combining moderate technical difficulty with significant alpine character.

A successful ascent requires experience with multi-pitch climbing, efficient belaying, and comfort with exposure. The descent usually involves a combination of rappelling and easy scrambling. The 'Bepi-Führe' is a true classic, delivering an unforgettable journey up one of the Civetta's most iconic towers.

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