The morning mist still clung to the ancient pine trees as we approached Třívěžatá, its three sandstone towers looming like silent sentinels. Our objective for the day was "Bubo bubo," a route graded 5+ – a classic in this unique rock playground. The name itself, "Eagle Owl," hinted at something majestic, perhaps an exposed flight up the face.
The start felt deceptively easy, a gentle slab leading to the first tricky moves. Soon, the true character of Třívěžatá's sandstone began to reveal itself: pockets worn smooth by millennia of wind and rain, delicate friction moves on golden rock, and the ever-present awareness of distant protection points. The 5+ felt honest, demanding precise footwork and a cool head.
The crux arrived mid-way: a delicate traverse across an exposed slab, followed by a surprisingly physical section up a narrow, flaring crack. Every move required commitment, trusting the friction and the occasional small, solid hold. The cheers from below faded into the wind as I focused, hand over hand, foot placement by foot placement. The air grew thin, the exposure exhilarating.
Finally, the summit ring appeared, glinting in the now-bright sun. Clipping in, I pulled over the last bulge, the panoramic view of the surrounding forests and distant rock formations stretching out before me. The silence was profound, broken only by the gentle whisper of the wind – perhaps the ghost of a real Bubo bubo. It was a climb that perfectly encapsulated the beauty and challenge of sandstone climbing: a dance of balance, trust, and quiet determination.
Rules
Nature conservation: Climbing prohibited. Nature conservation document: Decision 2003, authority OP CHKO Žďárské vrchy
Žďárské vrchy Protected Landscape Area
- Rock sectors of the Žďárské vrchy have the status of specially protected areas (natural monuments or reserves)
- The following applies to all sectors except Čtyři palice:
- Access to the rocks by the shortest routes from marked tourist routes
- Climbing on objects other than marked ones and outside the permitted period only with a written permit from the PLA administration
- Use magnesium only with written permission from the PLA administration - replacement and installation of belays and marking of rocks and routes only with written consent from the PLA administration
- Organizing sports, tourist and other events only with the written consent of the PLA administration
Time and other restrictions are listed for individual sectors.
OVK: first ascents are prohibited
Nature conservation: Climbing prohibited. Nature Conservation Document: Decision 2003, authority OP CHKO Žďárské vrchy