Skip to content
You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.
< Back to List

Jižní stěna, Turek 5

Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones, 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 04. Čertův roh, Turek

5

Rock Climbing, Route on sun, Textile belay

Overview
Suggest changes

Last updated 2024-03-26

Grade 5

Climbing season

Restrictions in 5 month(s)

  • Open
  • Restricted
  • Unknown
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Community

Help improve this page

No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Log ascent Suggest a topo Suggest changes
Difficulty
5
Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
Location

50.81019, 14.21681

Navigate Navigate to the climb Google Mapy

Parking 2.4 km

50.80723, 14.18322

Google Waze
To the right of the "South Route" via the face to the ledge and directly to the summit.
Rules

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Weather forecast
Loading Weather...

Current conditions

No condition reports in the last 30 days.

No logs yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Reviews 0
Have you climbed here?
0 people bookmarked this place
Share this route

Send it to the person you want to climb it with.

WhatsApp Facebook

Nobody to climb with?

Find a climbing partner
Find a climbing partner
Author

Mario Witte

J. Nescheida

Similar routes nearby (around grade 5)
5
Myslivecká věž
From the start of the 'Náhorní cesta' (Plateau Route), diagonally left to the SW edge and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Chiricahuas
Left of the New North Route, up the wall to the left to the edge (K). Over the step and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Myslivecká věž
Like the 'Údolní spára' (Valley Crack) route, traverse into the middle of the west wall.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Žehlička
Up the plateau wall along the crack diagonally left to the ledge in the NW wall and along… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Žehlička
Via the wall and crack in the valley wall to the balcony and via the Old Path to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Chiricahuas
From the E balcony, in the fall line of the K route Větrná cesta (Windy Route), up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
Other climbing routes in Turek
2+
Turek
From the windward (W) side in the chimney left to the saddle. From the left, V edge to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Turek
To the right of the "Old Path" via an overhanging rib to the saddle. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Turek
Follow the Old Path to the saddle and a short S face directly north-east. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Turek
To the left of the "Old Path" start, via a corner to the forepeak and right to the saddle… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Turek
To the left of the "Full Moon" route, via a small pillar to the ledge and right to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Turek
Completely to the right on the S side, via the face to the forepeak. Then via the Old… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Turek
In the right part of the S face, an indistinct ramp upwards to the saddle. Then via the … Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Turek
To the left of "Eunuch's Trail" via a prominent ramp to the saddle. Then via the "Old… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Turek
In the left part of the S face, via the face to the terrace and then via the Old Path to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Turek
To the left in the S face, via a small pillar (sokolík) and the face to the terrace. Then… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay