Part of 04. Čertův roh, Turek has 22 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 5+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Route on sun, Fixed belay.
Rules
Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
4+
Jihozápadní hrana
Via the SW edge to the ledge and right along the edge via the face in the S face to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Západní pilíř
To the right of the start of the Old Path, via a pillar to the S ledge and then via the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Jižní spára
To the left on the south side, via a crack into a hole and diagonally right to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Blokový komín
To the right of the "Valley Crack" via a chimney to the terrace and then via the Old Path… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Tři břicha
To the left of the "Duo" route, via a pillar over an overhang (K) to the terrace and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Údolní spára
In the notch on the valley side, via the left crack and a corner to the terrace. Then via… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Turecká rampa
To the right in the S face, via a ramp to the right to the SE edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
2+
Jižní komín
From the start of the "Turkish Ramp", via a narrow chimney to the terrace and then via… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4+
Jižní cesta
To the right of the "South Crack" route, via a crack and the face to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Jižní stěna
To the right of the "South Route" via the face to the ledge and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Eunuchova stezka
In the right part of the S face, an indistinct ramp upwards to the saddle. Then via the … Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Harémové schody
To the left of "Eunuch's Trail" via a prominent ramp to the saddle. Then via the "Old… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Varianta R
Completely to the right on the S side, via the face to the forepeak. Then via the Old… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Trio
To the left in the S face, via a small pillar (sokolík) and the face to the terrace. Then… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Údolní kout
Completely to the right on the valley side, via a prominent corner and crack to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Severní stěna
In the left part of the S face, via the face to the terrace and then via the Old Path to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Duo
To the left in the NE face, via the face over an overhang and a corner to the terrace.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Vrcholová varianta (Stará cesta)
Follow the Old Path to the saddle and a short S face directly north-east. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Pilířek
To the left of the "Full Moon" route, via a small pillar to the ledge and right to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Nástupová varianta
To the right of the "Old Path" via an overhanging rib to the saddle. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Úplněk
To the left of the "Old Path" start, via a corner to the forepeak and right to the saddle… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Stará cesta
From the windward (W) side in the chimney left to the saddle. From the left, V edge to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay