Skip to content
You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.
< Back to List

Koutová, Varta 6+/7-

Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones, 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 04. Šoulend, Varta

6+/7-

Rock Climbing, Fixed belay

Last updated 2024-05-11

Grade 6+/7-

Climbing season

No climbing restrictions found

  • Open
  • Restricted
  • Unknown
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Community

Help improve this page

No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Difficulty
6+/7-
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
Location

50.85308, 14.22358

To the left of the route "Ferret Dance" at the corner over 4 rings to the summit.
Rules

Nature Conservation: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature Conservation Document: Measure of a General Nature 2021, map 2021, authority OP Administration of NP Czech Switzerland

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Weather forecast
Loading Weather...

Current conditions

No condition reports in the last 30 days.

No logs yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Reviews 0
Have you climbed here?
0 people bookmarked this place
Share this route

Send it to the person you want to climb it with.

WhatsApp Facebook

Nobody to climb with?

Similar routes nearby (around grade 6+/7-)
6+/7-
Žížův masiv
Via the route "Mazel Faun", higher up traverse right along the ledge to the edge and up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Dolní jeskynní věž
Through the middle of the West face (K) to the balcony to the 3rd K of the "Mysterious… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Nastěnka
In the right part of the overhanging pillar, over the BH to the ledge (loop) and slightly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Špína
Through a crack in the middle of the wall over 2 BHs to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Dolní jeskynní věž
Along the West edge (2K) to the balcony to the 3rd K. Up the wall (4th K) via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Dolní jeskynní věž
From the left to the right plateau edge and along it over 3BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
Other climbing routes in Varta
6-
Varta
Southwest valley wall along the edge over 4BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Varta
Via the route "Pico Beautiful" to the 1st BH, traverse left and along the edge back above… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Varta
In the valley wall from the balcony directly over the bh with two jumps into the recess… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Varta
To the left of the route "Gift for the Brave" from the balcony over 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Varta
Along the prominent right valley (SW) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Varta
To the right of the route "Gift for the Brave", up the wall directly over the bh to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1