Part of 04. Šoulend, Varta has 7 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 6- to 9/9+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Route on sun, Laid wall.
Rules
Nature Conservation: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature Conservation Document: Measure of a General Nature 2021, map 2021, authority OP Administration of NP Czech Switzerland
- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park
- Climb in daylight only.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- Jumps between towers are not allowed.
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.