Skip to content
You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.
< Back to List

Severozápadní spára, Zefír 4+

Czech Republic, East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks, Ostrov, Zefír

4+

Rock Climbing, Textile belay

Last updated 2024-03-26

Grade 4+

Climbing season

Restrictions in 4 month(s)

  • Open
  • Restricted
  • Unknown
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Community

Help improve this page

No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Difficulty
4+
Rock Climbing Textile belay
Location

50.61064, 16.11478

Parking 892 m

50.61697, 16.12254

From the gorge from NW (from Pusina) via a corner crack, higher up via a chimney to the detached block and via the 'Jižní komín' (South Chimney) route to the summit.

Discover Severozápadní spára, a climbing route rated 4+. Check the latest user reviews, view the topo map below, or join the community to add your own photos for Severozápadní spára.

Rules

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to April 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature Conservation: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1st to April 30th. Nature Conservation Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority CHKO Broumovsko (Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area)

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Weather forecast
Loading Weather...

Current conditions

No condition reports in the last 30 days.

No logs yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Reviews 0
Have you climbed here?
0 people bookmarked this place
Share this route

Send it to the person you want to climb it with.

WhatsApp Facebook

Nobody to climb with?

Similar routes nearby (around grade 4+)
4+
Telefonista
In the left part of the valley wall, chimney between Telefonist and Wanderer (ring) into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Chobot
From the highest point of the terrain along the eastern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Ostrov bláznů
Through the left NW crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Ostrov bláznů
The entry is to the left of the walk-through chimney. From the block, by an overhang and… Rock Climbing
4+
Alkron
From NE by crack to the ledge. By crack and right to the pillar. To the right by chimney… Rock Climbing
4+
Ostrov bláznů
Between Ostrov bláznů (Island of Fools) and Ostrovní hora (Island Mountain), by stemming… Rock Climbing
Other climbing routes in Zefír
3
Zefír
Descent from Ještěrka to a small pillar and traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Zefír
From the plateau side via a corner, higher up the face to the left (2 Q) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Zefír
Via the 'Přes odštěp' (Across the Detachment) route to Ještěrka up to the detached block … Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Zefír
Via the 'Severozápadní spára' (Northwest Crack) route for about four meters and traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay