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Climbing at Ostrov

466 routes
137 areas
1–10 grades

Ostrov in the Adršpach Rocks offers almost 470 routes on 147 towers – for example Čertův most, Ostrov bláznů, Faraon, Korál, Albatros and Ostrovní. The climbing is traditional sandstone with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 1 to 10.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Ostrov has 466 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 137 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Spare Route.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature Conservation: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1st to April 30th. Nature Conservation Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority CHKO Broumovsko (Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area)

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Google Waze
Čertův most 13 routes Ostrov bláznů 12 routes Faraon 9 routes Korál 9 routes Albatros 8 routes Ostrovní 8 routes Káča 8 routes Čertík 8 routes Tulák 8 routes Páv 7 routes Rukavice 7 routes Tajuplná 7 routes Pašerák 7 routes Saská placka 7 routes Rumburak 6 routes Peklo 6 routes Démon 6 routes Fregata 6 routes Věž u Lucia 6 routes Lupič 6 routes Pirát 6 routes Zefír 5 routes Kladivoun 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Zrzek 5 routes Kolozub 5 routes Carabus 5 routes Morgan 5 routes Trosečník 5 routes Mořská panna 5 routes Ježci 5 routes Cimbuří 4 routes Dingo 4 routes Hříbek 4 routes Klusáček 4 routes Trautenberk 4 routes Ostrovní hora 4 routes Slepičí král 4 routes Rohatá 4 routes Sen (Kokšův sen) 4 routes Lucius 4 routes Alkron 4 routes Julián 4 routes Chobot 4 routes Věž Waltera Bonattiho 4 routes Kriminálník 4 routes Mysliveček 4 routes Telefonista 3 routes Zub 3 routes Pusina 3 routes Kristián 3 routes Sklípkan s knírem 3 routes Útes 3 routes Skočná 3 routes Nebesa 3 routes Koloťuk 3 routes Piskoř 3 routes Blekota 3 routes Pálavská 3 routes Blátoš 3 routes Alka 3 routes Robinson 3 routes Černý opat 3 routes Atol Mururoa 3 routes Poskok 3 routes Ještěrka 3 routes Očistec 3 routes Džunka 3 routes Kačer 3 routes Šejdíř 3 routes Blíženci - Zlý 3 routes Ibiza 3 routes Ládík 3 routes Sekáček 3 routes Kazišuk 3 routes Dešťová víla 3 routes Trutnovská 3 routes Mefisto 3 routes Bukanýr 3 routes Ostrovní věžička 3 routes Čertův švagr 3 routes Rákosníček 3 routes Mecheché 3 routes Skunk 3 routes Babulík 3 routes Alf 3 routes Pekelník 2 routes Baseballová hůl 2 routes Vrak 2 routes Pekelná brána 2 routes Spasská věž 2 routes Kormorán 2 routes Hobo 2 routes Huňka 2 routes Lázně Běloves 2 routes Mořský koník 2 routes Matračka 2 routes Hora mechu 2 routes Mumie 2 routes Vodmašťovna 2 routes Angrešt 2 routes Všední 2 routes Pusinka 2 routes Hrouda 2 routes Anče 2 routes Mufin 2 routes Pablízek 2 routes Neptun 2 routes Celebes 2 routes Mates 2 routes Podhříbek 1 route Jumbo 1 route Moby Dick 1 route U tří pomocníků 1 route Padací most 1 route Anna van Deak 1 route Gazela 1 route Kuba II 1 route Svatební dar 1 route Mléčný zoubek 1 route Domovník 1 route Kuba 1 route Lingam 1 route Eňu 1 route Sicílie 1 route Silwer 1 route Huňáč 1 route Racek 1 route Poloostrov 1 route Čertova tchyně 1 route Společná 1 route Blíženci - Dobrý 1 route Finský domek 1 route Boxer 1 route Oscilant 1 route Čípek 1 route Posed 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
4
Mumie
Left of the 'Sokolíky' route, up the wall and through the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mumie
From the NE, via small overhangs/climbing steps to the right onto a small platform, then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Zrzek
Left of the Černý humor route via a crack and chimney to the sub-summit plateau. Via the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Kačer
From the plateau side via the wall right past the edge, via a crack and wall to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Kačer
Left of the start of the Polední kejhání route via the edge to the ledge and traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Kačer
From the right valley edge traverse the wall left and via a small crack under the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Zrzek
From NE via a structured chimney to the plateau, corner crack to the pillar and wall to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Zrzek
Left of the southern edge via the wall, higher via a small crack under the overhang … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5+
Zrzek
Via the East route to the plateau before the corner crack. Left via an overhang and wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Zrzek
Left of the East route via the chimney to a small pillar. Wall left behind the edge, wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Faraon
From the corner on the SW side of the tower via an overhanging chimney into the chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Faraon
From the block between Faraon and Devil's Bridge via an overflow and crack to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Faraon
From the northern edge via a crack into the recess and onto the balcony. Via the friable… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Faraon
The start is left of the Žluté pisky route. Wall right, crack and left wall to 1st and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Faraon
From NE via the chimney into the gorge between Faraon and Zrzek. Via the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Faraon
From the fore-rock between Faraon and Zrzek via the left part of the wall to the balcony … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Faraon
From the NE via the corner crack to the pillar. Along the ledge to the right, via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Faraon
At the east corner via the chimney to the block and via the wall to the 1st ring. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Faraon
Through the chimney and over the overhang via a crack directly into the crack of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Alkron
From Devil's Bridge by jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Rákosníček
By Western crack (ring) and from left by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Rákosníček
To the right of the northern edge by crack to the 1st ring. To the left by small pillar… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Rákosníček
By NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
9/9+
Zub
Right of the "Hubařská stezka" (Mushroom Picker's Path), up the wall along the cracks (6… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Zub
In the middle of the SE wall, via the overhanging crack to the 1st ring, (building up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Zub
In the southern edge, via the crack to the 1st and 2nd rings. Building up from the seat… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Korál
Between Ostrovní and Korál, descend through the chimney to the pillar. To the right of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Korál
From the saddle between Korál and Ostrovní (from NW), via a crack into a hole and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Korál
From the end of the gully, right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Korál
From the fore-rock on the SE side of the tower, descend two meters via the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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