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Climbing at Ostrov bláznů

12 routes
3–7-/7 grades

Part of Ostrov, Ostrov bláznů has 12 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3 to 7-/7. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route.

Rules

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to April 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature Conservation: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1st to April 30th. Nature Conservation Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority CHKO Broumovsko (Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area)

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

5+
Ostrov bláznů
From the NW edge, traverse in ledges right into a crack, by it to the S pre-summit, left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Ostrov bláznů
From the SW end of the passage, right over a vertical wall by opposition to the pillar.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ostrov bláznů
To the left of the SW passage (by building) by a crack to the balcony and by Protlačená… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7-/7
Ostrov bláznů
From the east, along the corner and by a wall to the right to the ring. To the right by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Ostrov bláznů
The entry is to the left of the walk-through chimney. From the block, by an overhang and… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Ostrov bláznů
At the eastern corner, by a crack and a fissure to the ring. By a wall to the SE pillar,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Ostrov bláznů
Between Ostrov bláznů (Island of Fools) and Ostrovní hora (Island Mountain), by stemming… Rock Climbing
4-
Ostrov bláznů
From the passage, by stemming to the SE pillar and by Kelímek's route to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Ostrov bláznů
Through the right valley crack, by a chimney to the pre-summit, by an overhang and a wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Ostrov bláznů
From the SW through a passage into the inner space and by a chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Ostrov bláznů
Through the left NW crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Ostrov bláznů
Through the middle NW crack to the pillar and to the left by a wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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