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Climbing at Ostrov

466 routes
137 areas
1–10 grades

Ostrov in the Adršpach Rocks offers almost 470 routes on 147 towers – for example Čertův most, Ostrov bláznů, Faraon, Korál, Albatros and Ostrovní. The climbing is traditional sandstone with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 1 to 10.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Ostrov has 466 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 137 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Spare Route.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature Conservation: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1st to April 30th. Nature Conservation Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority CHKO Broumovsko (Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area)

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Čertův most 13 routes Ostrov bláznů 12 routes Faraon 9 routes Korál 9 routes Albatros 8 routes Ostrovní 8 routes Káča 8 routes Čertík 8 routes Tulák 8 routes Páv 7 routes Rukavice 7 routes Tajuplná 7 routes Pašerák 7 routes Saská placka 7 routes Rumburak 6 routes Peklo 6 routes Démon 6 routes Fregata 6 routes Věž u Lucia 6 routes Lupič 6 routes Pirát 6 routes Zefír 5 routes Kladivoun 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Zrzek 5 routes Kolozub 5 routes Carabus 5 routes Morgan 5 routes Trosečník 5 routes Mořská panna 5 routes Ježci 5 routes Cimbuří 4 routes Dingo 4 routes Hříbek 4 routes Klusáček 4 routes Trautenberk 4 routes Ostrovní hora 4 routes Slepičí král 4 routes Rohatá 4 routes Sen (Kokšův sen) 4 routes Lucius 4 routes Alkron 4 routes Julián 4 routes Chobot 4 routes Věž Waltera Bonattiho 4 routes Kriminálník 4 routes Mysliveček 4 routes Telefonista 3 routes Zub 3 routes Pusina 3 routes Kristián 3 routes Sklípkan s knírem 3 routes Útes 3 routes Skočná 3 routes Nebesa 3 routes Koloťuk 3 routes Piskoř 3 routes Blekota 3 routes Pálavská 3 routes Blátoš 3 routes Alka 3 routes Robinson 3 routes Černý opat 3 routes Atol Mururoa 3 routes Poskok 3 routes Ještěrka 3 routes Očistec 3 routes Džunka 3 routes Kačer 3 routes Šejdíř 3 routes Blíženci - Zlý 3 routes Ibiza 3 routes Ládík 3 routes Sekáček 3 routes Kazišuk 3 routes Dešťová víla 3 routes Trutnovská 3 routes Mefisto 3 routes Bukanýr 3 routes Ostrovní věžička 3 routes Čertův švagr 3 routes Rákosníček 3 routes Mecheché 3 routes Skunk 3 routes Babulík 3 routes Alf 3 routes Pekelník 2 routes Baseballová hůl 2 routes Vrak 2 routes Pekelná brána 2 routes Spasská věž 2 routes Kormorán 2 routes Hobo 2 routes Huňka 2 routes Lázně Běloves 2 routes Mořský koník 2 routes Matračka 2 routes Hora mechu 2 routes Mumie 2 routes Vodmašťovna 2 routes Angrešt 2 routes Všední 2 routes Pusinka 2 routes Hrouda 2 routes Anče 2 routes Mufin 2 routes Pablízek 2 routes Neptun 2 routes Celebes 2 routes Mates 2 routes Podhříbek 1 route Jumbo 1 route Moby Dick 1 route U tří pomocníků 1 route Padací most 1 route Anna van Deak 1 route Gazela 1 route Kuba II 1 route Svatební dar 1 route Mléčný zoubek 1 route Domovník 1 route Kuba 1 route Lingam 1 route Eňu 1 route Sicílie 1 route Silwer 1 route Huňáč 1 route Racek 1 route Poloostrov 1 route Čertova tchyně 1 route Společná 1 route Blíženci - Dobrý 1 route Finský domek 1 route Boxer 1 route Oscilant 1 route Čípek 1 route Posed 1 route
5+
Pašerák
Via a crack to the pillar to the ring from the 'Devizák' route and thence to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Pašerák
Rock Climbing
6-
Pašerák
Left of the 'Údolní komín' (Valley Chimney) route via a crack in the corner to the pillar… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Ještěrka
Left of the north edge via a chimney between Ještěrka and the pillar, higher up via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Ještěrka
From the highest point of the Ještěrka plateau via a chimney between Ještěrka and Zefír… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Ještěrka
Right of the 'Přes odštěp' route via a small crack, higher up via a crack to the balcony… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Rohatá
To the SE balcony via a chimney from the opposite side. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Rohatá
Via the left valley (NE) crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Rohatá
From the terrain terrace on the SW side of the tower via a chimney to the SE balcony.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Rohatá
Via the north chimney to the fore-rock and along the east edge (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Útes
In the middle of the NE face from a block via a crack to a small balcony. Via a corner… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Útes
In the left part of the NE face via a chimney to the pillar and then via the face to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Útes
Right of the 'Standův komín' (Standa's Chimney) route via a crack to the pillar and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Robinson
Up the east corner crack to the 1st ring (aid climbing from a sling) and the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Robinson
From the block on the valley (NW) side, via a small crack under the overhang to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Robinson
Via the "Pátka's Route" left via a crack and wall (6 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pekelník
From the saddle, descend a few meters and initially along the north edge, later up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
4
Pekelník
From SW from the upper ramp between Pekelník and Basilisk, by building/aid climbing and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Tulák
From the 2nd ring along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Tulák
From the SE, up the chimney and crack over the overhang to the 1st ring. Up a small crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Tulák
From the small platform, right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Tulák
From the NE, up the corner to the balcony and left up a shallow crack to another balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Tulák
In the left part of the NW wall, up a crack to the ring, left up the wall and past a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Tulák
From the NE, up the chimney to the block. Up a double crack and chimney to the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Tulák
From the plateau side, up the chimney to the right onto the platform. Up the chimney to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Tulák
From the block on the plateau side, a jump into the gully, along it to the small platform… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Démon
From the SW, up a diagonal crack (2 rings) to the pillar, building (up/aid) to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Poskok
At the SE corner, two meters up a chimney. Up the wall, past a small rock outcrop, and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
1
Poskok
From the chimney from the south, up the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Poskok
Along the rounded eastern edge and right wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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