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Climbing at Ostrov

466 routes
137 areas
1–10 grades

Ostrov in the Adršpach Rocks offers almost 470 routes on 147 towers – for example Čertův most, Ostrov bláznů, Faraon, Korál, Albatros and Ostrovní. The climbing is traditional sandstone with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 1 to 10.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Ostrov has 466 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 137 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Spare Route.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature Conservation: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1st to April 30th. Nature Conservation Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority CHKO Broumovsko (Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area)

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Čertův most 13 routes Ostrov bláznů 12 routes Faraon 9 routes Korál 9 routes Albatros 8 routes Ostrovní 8 routes Káča 8 routes Čertík 8 routes Tulák 8 routes Páv 7 routes Rukavice 7 routes Tajuplná 7 routes Pašerák 7 routes Saská placka 7 routes Rumburak 6 routes Peklo 6 routes Démon 6 routes Fregata 6 routes Věž u Lucia 6 routes Lupič 6 routes Pirát 6 routes Zefír 5 routes Kladivoun 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Zrzek 5 routes Kolozub 5 routes Carabus 5 routes Morgan 5 routes Trosečník 5 routes Mořská panna 5 routes Ježci 5 routes Cimbuří 4 routes Dingo 4 routes Hříbek 4 routes Klusáček 4 routes Trautenberk 4 routes Ostrovní hora 4 routes Slepičí král 4 routes Rohatá 4 routes Sen (Kokšův sen) 4 routes Lucius 4 routes Alkron 4 routes Julián 4 routes Chobot 4 routes Věž Waltera Bonattiho 4 routes Kriminálník 4 routes Mysliveček 4 routes Telefonista 3 routes Zub 3 routes Pusina 3 routes Kristián 3 routes Sklípkan s knírem 3 routes Útes 3 routes Skočná 3 routes Nebesa 3 routes Koloťuk 3 routes Piskoř 3 routes Blekota 3 routes Pálavská 3 routes Blátoš 3 routes Alka 3 routes Robinson 3 routes Černý opat 3 routes Atol Mururoa 3 routes Poskok 3 routes Ještěrka 3 routes Očistec 3 routes Džunka 3 routes Kačer 3 routes Šejdíř 3 routes Blíženci - Zlý 3 routes Ibiza 3 routes Ládík 3 routes Sekáček 3 routes Kazišuk 3 routes Dešťová víla 3 routes Trutnovská 3 routes Mefisto 3 routes Bukanýr 3 routes Ostrovní věžička 3 routes Čertův švagr 3 routes Rákosníček 3 routes Mecheché 3 routes Skunk 3 routes Babulík 3 routes Alf 3 routes Pekelník 2 routes Baseballová hůl 2 routes Vrak 2 routes Pekelná brána 2 routes Spasská věž 2 routes Kormorán 2 routes Hobo 2 routes Huňka 2 routes Lázně Běloves 2 routes Mořský koník 2 routes Matračka 2 routes Hora mechu 2 routes Mumie 2 routes Vodmašťovna 2 routes Angrešt 2 routes Všední 2 routes Pusinka 2 routes Hrouda 2 routes Anče 2 routes Mufin 2 routes Pablízek 2 routes Neptun 2 routes Celebes 2 routes Mates 2 routes Podhříbek 1 route Jumbo 1 route Moby Dick 1 route U tří pomocníků 1 route Padací most 1 route Anna van Deak 1 route Gazela 1 route Kuba II 1 route Svatební dar 1 route Mléčný zoubek 1 route Domovník 1 route Kuba 1 route Lingam 1 route Eňu 1 route Sicílie 1 route Silwer 1 route Huňáč 1 route Racek 1 route Poloostrov 1 route Čertova tchyně 1 route Společná 1 route Blíženci - Dobrý 1 route Finský domek 1 route Boxer 1 route Oscilant 1 route Čípek 1 route Posed 1 route
7/7+
Korál
From the fore-rock on the SE side of the tower, descend two meters via the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Korál
From the SE via a shallow gully, left up the wall to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Korál
Via the right NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4
Korál
Via the left NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Korál
At the north edge, straddling Ostrovní and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Bukanýr
From Rohatá (on the NE side of the tower) by descending right between the pillar of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Bukanýr
Through the chimney in the NW wall to the pillar. Traverse and wall along the rib to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Cimbuří
In the chimney between Cimbuří and Bukanýr by crack to the small tower. By stepping over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Padací most
From the valley side by crack and right by ledge to the 1st ring, by sokolíky (small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Bukanýr
By chimney of the old route about 8m to the ring. Right into the gully, through it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Cimbuří
In the valley (NW) face by crack (ring) and chimney to a detached block. Then by the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Cimbuří
From NE by wider crack to the lower summit. Then by the route „Zbloudilá“ to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5
Cimbuří
From NE by chimney between Cimbuří and Bukanýr diagonally left to a detached block. By… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Babulík
Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Babulík
By chimney and along the edge (4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Babulík
Left on the plateau side of the tower by small cracks and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čertova tchyně
From SW, chimney to the pillar. With extensive building up to the ring. Building up from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7/7+
Čertík
To the right of the "Northwest Crack" route, an overhanging crack and rounded edge (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Čertík
From SW, from the through chimney (between Devil and Hell), by stemming to the ring. Wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Čertík
In the middle of the east face (5m left of the start of the Devil's Hoof route) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Čertík
SE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7-/7
Čertík
On the left, in the east face, a double crack leads to a overgrown balcony, and on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Čertík
From the 2nd ring of the "Devil's Hoof" route, directly up the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Čertík
Up the wall and crack to the ring. Up the wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Čertík
At the north corner of the tower, by a crack and small dihedral to the 1st ring. By a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Lucius
Along the left part of the NW wall along the small crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Pašerák
In the valley (NE) wall, by a crack, a fissure (ring), and a wall to the pillar towards… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Pašerák
From Ještěrčí Square, through the chimney to the SE summit. Via the Valley Chimney route… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pašerák
Through the chimney between Pašerák and Ještěrka (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Pašerák
Rock Climbing

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