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Climbing at Faraon

9 routes
5–7+/8- grades

Part of Ostrov, Faraon has 9 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 5 to 7+/8-. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route.

Rules

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to April 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature Conservation: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1st to April 30th. Nature Conservation Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority CHKO Broumovsko (Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area)

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

5
Faraon
From the corner on the SW side of the tower via an overhanging chimney into the chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Faraon
From the block between Faraon and Devil's Bridge via an overflow and crack to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Faraon
The start is left of the Žluté pisky route. Wall right, crack and left wall to 1st and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Faraon
From the northern edge via a crack into the recess and onto the balcony. Via the friable… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Faraon
From the NE via the corner crack to the pillar. Along the ledge to the right, via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Faraon
From the fore-rock between Faraon and Zrzek via the left part of the wall to the balcony … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Faraon
At the east corner via the chimney to the block and via the wall to the 1st ring. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Faraon
From NE via the chimney into the gorge between Faraon and Zrzek. Via the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Faraon
Through the chimney and over the overhang via a crack directly into the crack of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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