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Climbing at Ostrov

466 routes
137 areas
1–10 grades

Ostrov in the Adršpach Rocks offers almost 470 routes on 147 towers – for example Čertův most, Ostrov bláznů, Faraon, Korál, Albatros and Ostrovní. The climbing is traditional sandstone with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 1 to 10.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Ostrov has 466 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 137 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Spare Route.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature Conservation: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1st to April 30th. Nature Conservation Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority CHKO Broumovsko (Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area)

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Čertův most 13 routes Ostrov bláznů 12 routes Faraon 9 routes Korál 9 routes Albatros 8 routes Ostrovní 8 routes Káča 8 routes Čertík 8 routes Tulák 8 routes Páv 7 routes Rukavice 7 routes Tajuplná 7 routes Pašerák 7 routes Saská placka 7 routes Rumburak 6 routes Peklo 6 routes Démon 6 routes Fregata 6 routes Věž u Lucia 6 routes Lupič 6 routes Pirát 6 routes Zefír 5 routes Kladivoun 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Zrzek 5 routes Kolozub 5 routes Carabus 5 routes Morgan 5 routes Trosečník 5 routes Mořská panna 5 routes Ježci 5 routes Cimbuří 4 routes Dingo 4 routes Hříbek 4 routes Klusáček 4 routes Trautenberk 4 routes Ostrovní hora 4 routes Slepičí král 4 routes Rohatá 4 routes Sen (Kokšův sen) 4 routes Lucius 4 routes Alkron 4 routes Julián 4 routes Chobot 4 routes Věž Waltera Bonattiho 4 routes Kriminálník 4 routes Mysliveček 4 routes Telefonista 3 routes Zub 3 routes Pusina 3 routes Kristián 3 routes Sklípkan s knírem 3 routes Útes 3 routes Skočná 3 routes Nebesa 3 routes Koloťuk 3 routes Piskoř 3 routes Blekota 3 routes Pálavská 3 routes Blátoš 3 routes Alka 3 routes Robinson 3 routes Černý opat 3 routes Atol Mururoa 3 routes Poskok 3 routes Ještěrka 3 routes Očistec 3 routes Džunka 3 routes Kačer 3 routes Šejdíř 3 routes Blíženci - Zlý 3 routes Ibiza 3 routes Ládík 3 routes Sekáček 3 routes Kazišuk 3 routes Dešťová víla 3 routes Trutnovská 3 routes Mefisto 3 routes Bukanýr 3 routes Ostrovní věžička 3 routes Čertův švagr 3 routes Rákosníček 3 routes Mecheché 3 routes Skunk 3 routes Babulík 3 routes Alf 3 routes Pekelník 2 routes Baseballová hůl 2 routes Vrak 2 routes Pekelná brána 2 routes Spasská věž 2 routes Kormorán 2 routes Hobo 2 routes Huňka 2 routes Lázně Běloves 2 routes Mořský koník 2 routes Matračka 2 routes Hora mechu 2 routes Mumie 2 routes Vodmašťovna 2 routes Angrešt 2 routes Všední 2 routes Pusinka 2 routes Hrouda 2 routes Anče 2 routes Mufin 2 routes Pablízek 2 routes Neptun 2 routes Celebes 2 routes Mates 2 routes Podhříbek 1 route Jumbo 1 route Moby Dick 1 route U tří pomocníků 1 route Padací most 1 route Anna van Deak 1 route Gazela 1 route Kuba II 1 route Svatební dar 1 route Mléčný zoubek 1 route Domovník 1 route Kuba 1 route Lingam 1 route Eňu 1 route Sicílie 1 route Silwer 1 route Huňáč 1 route Racek 1 route Poloostrov 1 route Čertova tchyně 1 route Společná 1 route Blíženci - Dobrý 1 route Finský domek 1 route Boxer 1 route Oscilant 1 route Čípek 1 route Posed 1 route
4
Atol Mururoa
Via corner crack in the left part of the S face of the massif, further via narrow chimney… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Rukavice
From the block on the right, on the plateau side of the tower, via waterfall/overflow and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Rukavice
Via the Siamese Twins route to the saddle and traverse right along the wall to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Rukavice
Via chimney in the NE wall under the overhang and crack along the "twins" to the saddle.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Rukavice
Via the right NE crack over the overhang (ring), a step right and another crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
6
Rukavice
From the ring via crack directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4
Rukavice
From the plateau gorge, by the left crack in the SW wall, higher up by a chimney to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
6+/7-
Rukavice
From the inner space via chimney and crack in the NW wall to the 1st ring. Via wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Rumburak
From the start of the Descent (route), by a very narrow chimney to the pre-summit and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
Přeskok
Dešťová víla
From the massif, a traverse/step across to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Dešťová víla
On the plateau side, by stemming/bridging and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pirát
Left of the Route of Virgins, crack over overhang (ring) to the SW summit. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Posed
Through cracks (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pirát
In the right part of the NW wall (from the Řeřichový potok) via a crack to the end and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Pirát
From the upper side through the chimney to the clock and traverse right along the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Pirát
From NW through the chimney to the lower SW summit. Overhang (added ring) and notch up to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Pirát
Upper crack over ring to the pre-summit. Overhang to the 2nd ring and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7-/7
Pirát
Start from NE via crack (1st ring) to 2nd ring, wall over hours into a horizontal notch … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6+/7-
Očistec
From N, small chimney, traverse the slab (ring) below the crack. Through the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Očistec
Crack to the left of the route Paradise in sight (ring). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Očistec
Upper small chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
6-
Lázně Běloves
In the valley NE wall, crack to the small balcony. Wall higher right (ring) to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Lázně Běloves
From the upper side by stepping over from the block and along the ledge n. v. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Kriminálník
In the corner on the NE wall of the tower, via a gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Kriminálník
Left of the Old Route, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Kriminálník
North edge to the summit (from the plateau). Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Kriminálník
From the blocks on the NW side of the tower, via a narrow crack (1st ring) and a falcon… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Káča
Left NE crack and chimney to the 1st ring. Crack to the pillar, by construction and crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Káča
Middle NE crack (1st ring) into the chimney. From the opposition (by construction) up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Káča
To the left of the Second Route, up the wall and crack into a deep gully to the clock.… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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