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Grimper à 1. Ostrov

3754 voies
4 domaines
1–9+ notes

Ostrov est le site rocheux autour du hameau du même nom, près de Tisá, juste à la frontière saxonne. Il se compose de hautes tours et de massifs de grès dur et, avec plus de 3 700 voies sur climbing.place, c'est l'un des secteurs les plus vastes et les plus fréquentés des Grès de l'Elbe. Avec Tisá et Rájec, il forme un triangle où l'on peut facilement passer une semaine entière de grimpe.

L'escalade y est typique du grès et engagée : fissures, cheminées et murs avec une protection espacée par anneaux et sangles. On peut loger à Ostrov même ou dans le village voisin de Tisá.

Faisant partie de Grès de l'Elbe, 1. Ostrov possède 3754 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 9+. Explorez ses 4 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Velká ostrovská stěna
Through the center of the face between the Koutova and Ukradena routes to a ledge. By the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Velká ostrovská stěna
Following the 'Obesity is a Threat' route to the 1st ring, from the ring by the face to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Velká ostrovská stěna
Start as for the "Obesity No Longer a Threat" route. From the block straight up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Velká ostrovská stěna
From the block under the face into the hole and by the face to the ring. Briefly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Velká ostrovská stěna
From the block in the SW face Diagonally right, traverse left (slings) under the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Velká ostrovská stěna
From the block in the SW face diagonally left to the 1st ring. Traverse left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Velká ostrovská stěna
Through the center of the valley face to the 1st ring. Diagonally right to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Velká ostrovská stěna
From the 1st bolt of the "Roman Baths" route directly over the BH to the 3rd bolt of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Velká ostrovská stěna
In the left part of the valley face to the ring. Right into the chimney and up it, and by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Velká ostrovská stěna
To the left of the Left Valley Edge, by the face over the hole directly to the bolt. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Velká ostrovská stěna
Following the 'Sokolík' route up to the SW face. Over the overhang and by a notch to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Velká ostrovská stěna
Through the center of the NW face to a horizontal hole. Right behind the edge and over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Velká ostrovská stěna
Through the center of the valley face to the ring. By the face and on the right by small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Velká ostrovská stěna
From the gully of the east face directly over 1 bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Velká ostrovská stěna
From the gully to the right on the south edge (hourglass). By the wall along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Velká ostrovská stěna
By crack in the NE face to the ledge with the ring and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Velká ostrovská stěna
Through the center of the NW face to a horizontal hole. By a crack and the face to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Velká ostrovská stěna
From the corner in the NE face, using the crack and stemming over two overhangs to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Malá ostrovská stěna
By the right part of the wall to the ring, by wall and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Malá ostrovská stěna
Between the buttress and the wall to the wedged block. Up to the small tower and by it to… Rock Climbing
5+
Malá ostrovská stěna
From the wedged boulder, wall diagonally to the right. By overhanging wall to the balcony… Rock Climbing
4+
Malá ostrovská stěna
In the right part of the wall, along the edge to the balcony. By crack to the ring and by… Rock Climbing
5
Malá ostrovská stěna
By crack in the indistinct corner, higher by the small tower and crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Ostrovská jehlička
By wall and crack to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Ostrovská jehlička
Descent from the massif under the rappel point to the ledge and a step to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Malá ostrovská stěna
Between Ostrovska jehlicka and the wall along the edge to the small tower. By the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ostrovská jehlička
From the foresummit, along the west edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Ostrovská jehlička
Left in the NW wall, short crack to the block, right along the edge to the ring, further…
6
Ostrovská jehlička
By the left pillar in the NW face to the ledge. Freely to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Malá ostrovská stěna
By the left part of the wall to the top of the buttress. By the drop and the wall under… Rock Climbing

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