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Grimper à 1. Ostrov

3754 voies
4 domaines
1–9+ notes

Ostrov est le site rocheux autour du hameau du même nom, près de Tisá, juste à la frontière saxonne. Il se compose de hautes tours et de massifs de grès dur et, avec plus de 3 700 voies sur climbing.place, c'est l'un des secteurs les plus vastes et les plus fréquentés des Grès de l'Elbe. Avec Tisá et Rájec, il forme un triangle où l'on peut facilement passer une semaine entière de grimpe.

L'escalade y est typique du grès et engagée : fissures, cheminées et murs avec une protection espacée par anneaux et sangles. On peut loger à Ostrov même ou dans le village voisin de Tisá.

Faisant partie de Grès de l'Elbe, 1. Ostrov possède 3754 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 9+. Explorez ses 4 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Ježek
Through the center of the NE wall over the holes to the 1st ring. To the right rib to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Ježek
From S chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Skála bělské jeskyně
In the valley wall, from the chimney, climb the wall diagonally left to 1st belay. Wall… Rock Climbing
3
Skála bělské jeskyně
From the pillar in the space between the towers, a wide crack higher up into a recess. Rock Climbing
2+
Ježek
Descent from the massif and overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Ježek
On the left in the S wall rib to the left into the crack. Through the crack to the ledge… Rock Climbing
5+
Ježek
In the right part of the S wall chimney (hourglass) to the ring. Up the wall along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ježek
On the right in the S wall chimney, higher up corner and crack to the top. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Hranol - Backstein
In the valley wall along the left edge straight over the 2nd bolt into the Červená… Rock Climbing
6-
Hranol - Backstein
From the 1st ring of the Broučci route diagonally right up the wall to the rib and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Hranol - Backstein
To the left of the Červená ještěrka route, up the wall over 3 rings and then diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Hranol - Backstein
Start to the right of St. c. behind the edge. Up the wall over 2 rings with the help of a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hranol - Backstein
In the right part of the S wall, through the crack to the ring. Over two holes to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Hranol - Backstein
Traverse the S wall along the ledge to the right above the hole to the ring. Upwards to… Rock Climbing
4+
Hranol - Backstein
In the right part of the S wall, upwards into the overhanging crack and through it to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Hranol - Backstein
In the left part of the upland face to the horizontal hole, traverse left behind the edge… Rock Climbing
5+
Hranol - Backstein
To the left of the S crack, a short crack to the hourglass. Left through the crack to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Hranol - Backstein
To the left of the Fantom route, chimney and crack to the 1st ring. Left along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Hranol - Backstein
Through the center of the valley wall over 3 rings and then slightly from the right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hranol - Backstein
Through the center of the S wall (by positioning) into the oblique crack and through it… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Hranol - Backstein
Along the W edge over 3 rings under the large overhang to the 4th ring. Straight up the… Rock Climbing
4+
Hranol - Backstein
Up the middle of the upland face to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Hranol - Backstein
Up the right part of the upland face to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Věž nad strží
Left of the 'From Beyond' route, under the large overhang. Up the overhanging crack to… Rock Climbing
3
Věž nad strží
Up the chimney between the tower and the buttress to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Věž nad strží
Up the face right of the 'Chimney Route' to the crack and through it to the hole. Over… Rock Climbing
6-
Věž nad strží
In the left part of the E wall of the appendage, diagonally through the wall to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Věž nad strží
In the gully to the left of Expo 92, through the wall past 3 pitons to the ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Věž nad strží
From the gully between the massif and the tower, via a narrowing chimney to the saddle.… Rock Climbing
3
Věž nad strží
From the SW face to the top of the buttress. By overhang or jump to the top of the tower… Rock Climbing

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