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Grimper à 1. Ostrov

3754 voies
4 domaines
1–9+ notes

Ostrov est le site rocheux autour du hameau du même nom, près de Tisá, juste à la frontière saxonne. Il se compose de hautes tours et de massifs de grès dur et, avec plus de 3 700 voies sur climbing.place, c'est l'un des secteurs les plus vastes et les plus fréquentés des Grès de l'Elbe. Avec Tisá et Rájec, il forme un triangle où l'on peut facilement passer une semaine entière de grimpe.

L'escalade y est typique du grès et engagée : fissures, cheminées et murs avec une protection espacée par anneaux et sangles. On peut loger à Ostrov même ou dans le village voisin de Tisá.

Faisant partie de Grès de l'Elbe, 1. Ostrov possède 3754 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 9+. Explorez ses 4 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Uprchlík
Along the left valley edge to the ring. Along the edge to the clock. Diagonally across… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Uprchlík
Through the chimney into the saddle between the Mushroom. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Uprchlík
Through the center of the valley wall to the ring. Through the crack and wall to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Hříbek na hranici
From the upper side to the left onto the NW foreland. Through the wall and crack onto the… Rock Climbing
4+
Ptačí věž
From the slope right to the ledge, above it a large 'clock', up the wall under the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ptačí věž
Up the valley overhanging wall over a bolt to a shelf. Up the pillar wall over the second… Rock Climbing
3
Uprchlík
From the large platform from the east, through the recess and up the wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Uprchlík
From the east to the right into the overhanging crack and up it. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ptačí věž
In the left part of the valley wall, a short notch to the shelf. Up the overhanging wall… Rock Climbing
6
Uprchlík
Left part of the wall to the 1st bolt. Broken crack to the 2nd bolt. Then up the wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Muří noha
On the right in the south face, a massive overhang into a ledge. Then overhang into a… Rock Climbing
4-
Ptačí věž
Crack to the left of the old route to the ledge, traverse left to the west edge and to… Rock Climbing
4-
Muří noha
From the south, over the overhang into a short crack and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Muří noha
Along the edge under the small crack, upwards, traverse left above the valley overhang… Rock Climbing
5+
Ptačí věž
Right part of the valley (south) wall into the hole, traverse left and middle of the wall. Rock Climbing
3
Ptačí věž
Along the articulated edge in the right part of the upland wall. Rock Climbing
5+
Ptačí věž
To the left of route b) wall diagonally left to a bolt. Up the wall to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Muří noha
Over the overhang into the crack and up. Rock Climbing
4+
Muří noha
To the right of the Z crack, build up to the ledge and then up the wall along the edge. Rock Climbing
2+
Muří noha
From the upland side, over the overhang to the platform and then up. Rock Climbing
4-
Muří noha
Over the overhang into the crack and higher along the edge. Rock Climbing
4-
Růžena
Through the middle of the wall according to the notch. Rock Climbing
4-
Růžena
In the left part of the wall (from Muřínohy) along the edge. Rock Climbing
2+
Pešek
From Osadni overhang n. v.
2
Pešek
From West to the plateau saddle between the tower and Osadni and left over a step n. v.
2
Osadní
From West to the saddle between the tower and Pesek and right easily n. v.
4+
Mostová
Left North edge into a hole and up the wall right of the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Mostová
North face right of the tunnel, higher up a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Mostová
In the North face over an overhang into a crack and then up the wall. Rock Climbing
4+
Mostová
SW edge over a K n. v. Rock Climbing

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