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Grimper à 1. Ostrov

3754 voies
4 domaines
1–9+ notes

Ostrov est le site rocheux autour du hameau du même nom, près de Tisá, juste à la frontière saxonne. Il se compose de hautes tours et de massifs de grès dur et, avec plus de 3 700 voies sur climbing.place, c'est l'un des secteurs les plus vastes et les plus fréquentés des Grès de l'Elbe. Avec Tisá et Rájec, il forme un triangle où l'on peut facilement passer une semaine entière de grimpe.

L'escalade y est typique du grès et engagée : fissures, cheminées et murs avec une protection espacée par anneaux et sangles. On peut loger à Ostrov même ou dans le village voisin de Tisá.

Faisant partie de Grès de l'Elbe, 1. Ostrov possède 3754 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 9+. Explorez ses 4 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Koráb
From the area between Koráb and Čert through the wall via ring to the summit Rock Climbing
5+
Koráb
NW edge using a crack to the balcony. Wall diagonally to the left to the fissure and it… Rock Climbing
5
Koráb
From the chimney in the N corner through the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Koráb
In the W face through cracks and chimney to the ring. Wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Koráb
From the gully from the Devil SW rib to its end. Wall (ring) and crack, higher along the… Rock Climbing
4+
Koráb
From the gully between Gert and Koráb, through the fissure to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Koráb
Left in the NE face via ring into the crack and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Orlice
To the right of the route "valley wall" through the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Orlice
On the right in the valley wall, through a fissure to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Orlice
From the E, a small wall to the ledge and an overhanging wall to the ring. Diagonally… Rock Climbing
2+
Orlice
From the W through a chimney. Rock Climbing
5
Orlice
Chimneying to the ledge and over the overhanging wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Orlice
On the left in the valley wall, along an indistinct edge and a short rib to the ring.… Rock Climbing
6-
Orlice
From the slope diagonally to the right to the ring. Right along the SW edge to the corner… Rock Climbing
5+
Orlice
From the slope in the SW wall, a short rib to the 1st ring. Through the wall over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Orlice
Along the edge to the ledge and through the fissure near the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Orel
From the upland side, go right to the S edge, up to the platform in the upland wall and… Rock Climbing
4+
Orel
Through cracks in the upland wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Orlice
From the scree at the beginning of the chimney entrance, through cracks and fissures to… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Orlice
Jump from the massif. Rock Climbing
4+
Orel
Start along the right edge to the balcony, then as Grass fissure. Rock Climbing
6
Orel
Through the center of the valley wall over the circle directly to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Orel
Through the fissure in the left part of the SW wall to the ledge and via the old route to… Rock Climbing
6-
Orel
To the left of the Valley Route, along the edge over two circles to the ledge. From the… Rock Climbing
5
Orel
Through a wide recess in the west wall upwards, right (hours) to the edge to the circle.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Orel
Via the old route briefly to the left, over the overhang upwards to the edge and along it… Rock Climbing
4+
Orel
Fissure to the ledge in the old route and to the right of it an overhanging fissure. Rock Climbing
3
Pohádka
Along the edge of the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Orel
From the plateau side, traverse left into the valley wall and through a fissure to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Pohádka
Through a crack to the ledge and freely to the top. Rock Climbing

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