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Grimper à 1. Ostrov

3754 voies
4 domaines
1–9+ notes

Ostrov est le site rocheux autour du hameau du même nom, près de Tisá, juste à la frontière saxonne. Il se compose de hautes tours et de massifs de grès dur et, avec plus de 3 700 voies sur climbing.place, c'est l'un des secteurs les plus vastes et les plus fréquentés des Grès de l'Elbe. Avec Tisá et Rájec, il forme un triangle où l'on peut facilement passer une semaine entière de grimpe.

L'escalade y est typique du grès et engagée : fissures, cheminées et murs avec une protection espacée par anneaux et sangles. On peut loger à Ostrov même ou dans le village voisin de Tisá.

Faisant partie de Grès de l'Elbe, 1. Ostrov possède 3754 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 9+. Explorez ses 4 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Koutová věž
By a chimney between the massif and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Babka
From the right, over the west edge (the 'clock') to the sloping ledge into the northwest… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Věž nad cestou
Up the northwest edge, past K to the ledge, and then along the valley route n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Věž nad cestou
Through the center of the valley wall to the small falcon-shaped rock feature, then onto… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Věž nad cestou
From the south edge, traverse right into the northeast wall and up the steps to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Borovička
In the North face of the platform, diagonally to the left to a bolt. Up the face and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Borovička
In the right part of the lower face, up the face to a ring and to the right along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
4-
Borovička
In the North face, via a small rib to the left into the center of the face and up it to… Rock Climbing
3
Borovička
Near the East edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Borovička
The route is in the South face of the platform. From the slope to the right to a bolt. To… Rock Climbing
4-
Borovička
In the center of the West face, to the right of the pine tree.
4-
Borovička
Up the right West edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Borovička
Along the NE rounded edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Kóta 7
Along the receding rib to the stainless steel ring, then right and up the crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Rozpůlená skála
From the upper side near the gully to the summit.
4+
Rozpůlená skála
To the left in the upland overhang, along the edge to the summit.
5+
Rozpůlená skála
In the valley wall with a chimney to K under the overhang and initially overhang with a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Rozpůlená skála
From the beginning of the gully between the tower and M, right along the wall to K and…
3
Rozpůlená skála
To the right on the upper side, by a small wall to the summit.
5
Rozpůlená skála
To the left on the valley side to K, briefly left to the edge of the balcony and right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Rozpůlená skála
To the right in the SE wall with a chimney to the upper balcony, step over to the crack…
2
Rozpůlená skála
From the upper side, traverse left to the chimney.
6
Rozpůlená skála
To the right in the valley wall over the overhang (hourglass) and left along the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +1
4+
Rozpůlená skála
To the left of the west chimney, by a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Rozpůlená skála
To the right in the valley wall near a fine crack (v. hourglass) to K and along the edge…
2
Rozpůlená skála
Chimney in the west wall to the summit.
5
Dvojitá hlava
Via chimney at the NE edge to the ledge to the ring. Via the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Brána
Left of the NE edge, via chimney between the tower and the fore-rock, later via the face… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Brána
Left of Kozlice, via chimney and short edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Brána
Right of the Old Route, via crack and face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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