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Grimper à 1. Ostrov

3754 voies
4 domaines
1–9+ notes

Ostrov est le site rocheux autour du hameau du même nom, près de Tisá, juste à la frontière saxonne. Il se compose de hautes tours et de massifs de grès dur et, avec plus de 3 700 voies sur climbing.place, c'est l'un des secteurs les plus vastes et les plus fréquentés des Grès de l'Elbe. Avec Tisá et Rájec, il forme un triangle où l'on peut facilement passer une semaine entière de grimpe.

L'escalade y est typique du grès et engagée : fissures, cheminées et murs avec une protection espacée par anneaux et sangles. On peut loger à Ostrov même ou dans le village voisin de Tisá.

Faisant partie de Grès de l'Elbe, 1. Ostrov possède 3754 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 9+. Explorez ses 4 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Pastýř
By the SW wall of the lower foothill, higher through the gully to the upper balcony to… Rock Climbing
3
Pastýř
By the chimney dividing the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Pastýř
By the chimney to the block and by the winding crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Pastýř
By the chimney briefly up and to the left through the hole to the ledge. By crack to the… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Pastýř
From the 1st ring c. Makumba to the right towards Bh. and straight up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Čert
From the gully traverse to the right along the feature in the NE face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Pastýř
By corner (wedged boulders) and crack in the North wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Čert
From the 2nd ring to the left through the fissure and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Čert
From the gully to the moss-covered platform in the NE face. Right into the wall and along… Rock Climbing
4+
Pastýř
From the gully through a narrow chimney in the North wall. By corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Pastýř
Through the center of the sharp wall through the hole to the 1st ring, slightly from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Čert
Direttissima of the steel highway in cracks and wall directly to the ring. Then wall and… Rock Climbing
6
Čert
From the wall from right to left to the watches and to the 1st ring. Building to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Čert
Crack through the center of the NW face to the 1st ring of the route Surprise at the end.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Čert
From the block in the middle of the S face chimney to its end (slings). Traverse 2m to… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Čert
From the 3rd ring of Pearls of Sweat through the wall via ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Čert
From the NE edge upwards and traverse to the right to the NW face, (ring). Right and… Rock Climbing
5+
Čert
Wall close to the left edge of the NW face via ring to the crack (watches). Up to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Čert
Left valley edge via ring to the 1st ring route Ocelová magistrála. Through it without… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Čert
From the block in the valley wall diagonally to the right to the 1st ring. Wall (crossing… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
Přeskok
Čert
From the ledge on the tower "Shepherd" jump to the ledge and wall slightly above. Rock Climbing
6
Čert
From the valley through the corner to the saddle from the boulder diagonally to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Čert
From E from the gully to the block and through the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Čert
From the upland side traverse to the SE face and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Hroch
Right of "Hippo Pillar" corner (BH) left into the pillar and then pillar (BH) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Hroch
Edge and chimney (sling) to the 1st BH. Straight to the balcony and from it to the right…
5
Káča
From the left into the NE wall, through a fissure to the ledge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Hroch
Through the left chimney, n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Hroch
From the east, through a chimney to the block. Along the edge of the slab over K and an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Hroch
NW face via ring and then pillar (BH) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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