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U bivaku, sur la rive droite de la vallée de l'Elbe, offre plus de 70 voies – surtout sur la Havraní stěna, les autres sur Rolling stone, Strážce potoka, Bludný oblázek, Havraní jehla et Padlý anděl. Protection par anneaux et sangles, sur murs verticaux et dévers ; du 2 au 9+.

Faisant partie de 6. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive droite, 10b. U bivaku possède 71 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 9+. Explorez ses 7 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Overhang, Vertical wall.

Règles

  • Escalade de jour uniquement.
  • Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
  • Les sauts ne sont pas autorisés.
  • Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive droite : spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Havraní stěna
To the left on the valley (NW) side, from the ledge in the large corner. To the left of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Havraní stěna
Along the edge into the crack and up it to K. Along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Havraní stěna
From the balcony in the large corner in the left part of the valley face, along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Havraní stěna
To the right of the Owl Crack, through a crack over the overhang into a ledge to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Spící obr
In the plateau face, to the left onto the ledge, then right through the indentation to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Havraní stěna
In the left part of the valley face, via the small chimney (sokolík) and the face over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Havraní stěna
6 m to the left of the "Mosquito Route", up a distinctive wide crack to its end at the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Strážce potoka
To the right of the Valley Route, through the center of the face via 3 K to the pre… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Spící obr
In the center of the plateau face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Strážce potoka
To the left of the West edge, through the crack and face via K to the fore-rock, then… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Strážce potoka
Through the small chimney (sokolík) in the West face under the overhang to K. To the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Strážce potoka
In the middle of the valley face, via the crack to the pre-summit. Jump to the ledge of… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Strážce potoka
Through the chimney and the center of the South face via BH directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Strážce potoka
Follow "Old Route" to the chimney. To the right, in the South face, to the ledge and hand… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Strážce potoka
From the South, through the chimney between the tower and the massif to its end, traverse… Rock Climbing
4+
Strážce potoka
From the West via the corner crack into the chimney between the tower and the pre-summit.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Strážce potoka
Via the 'Old Route' into the chimney. Through the middle of the wall by stemming to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Strážce potoka
Via the 'Old Route' into the chimney and through the middle of the North wall to K. Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Bludný oblázek
In the right part of the valley wall, higher up to the right and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Danger
2+
Bludný oblázek
From the east via the slab wall. Rock Climbing
6
Bludný oblázek
Through the middle of the plateau wall. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
8+/9-
Bludný oblázek
In the right part of the plateau wall, with a leap to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
9
Bludný oblázek
In the left part of the valley wall along the gully via BH directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
9/9+
Bludný oblázek
Through the middle of the valley wall (2 BH) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Spící obr
In the right part of the plateau face to the summit. (abseil) Rock Climbing
4-
Rolling stone
Via the East wall to the 'Klouzačka' platform and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
9+
Padlý anděl
In the middle of the southwest wall via a crack to the 1st BH. Right to the 2nd BH and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Padlý anděl
Left of Poslíčků from the plateau via the ferruginous wall directly to BH, slightly from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Padlý anděl
Along the left valley edge to the 1st BH. Diagonally right to the 2nd BH and directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Rolling stone
Through the middle of the East wall to the ring and right to the summit. Rock Climbing

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