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Grimper à 3. Tisá

2935 voies
8 domaines
1–10 notes

Tisá – les murailles de Tisá (Tiské stěny) – est une cité rocheuse au nord du village de Tisá. Au bord du plateau de grès se dresse une barrière de parois orientées au sud, hautes jusqu'à 70 m, face aux monts de Bohême centrale, avec derrière elle un labyrinthe de tours, de failles et de passages étroits. Le site attire autant les randonneurs que les grimpeurs, et la tradition d'escalade y remonte à plus d'un siècle. climbing.place y recense plus de 2 900 voies.

On y trouve une escalade engagée sur trous, arêtes et fissures, avec quelques anneaux par voie. Les approches courtes et le large choix de cotations conviennent aussi bien aux débutants sur grès qu'aux grimpeurs expérimentés.

Faisant partie de Grès de l'Elbe, 3. Tisá possède 2935 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 10. Explorez ses 8 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Route on sun.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Jelení skok
Right up the S face (1st ring) into a crack, then left with a notch to a small balcony.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Jelení skok
Right in the E face by a wide crack to a ring. Up the face. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Jelení skok
Left in the E face by a system of cracks (ring) and up the face. Rock Climbing
6-
Jelení skok
Through the wide crack to the slab, from it right through the hand crack to K. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Jelení skok
Left, up the ferruginous wall to K. Up the slab to the wide crack, then n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Nová pekárna
From the start of the Tři oříšky route, diagonally left up the wall via BH into the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Nová pekárna
Through the center of the wall to the right of the Kvásek route, via 7 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Nová pekárna
From the 2nd Bh right via 2 BH to the 2nd K of the Tři oříšky pro ochmelky route. Then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Nová pekárna
Via the crimpy crack of the Tři oříšky route up to the big hourglass, higher directly up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Stará pekárna
Via the "Kuku Variant" to the ring. Then directly up the face past 2 rings, higher up to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Revizor
To the left of the Koutová cesta, climb the face (K) and the edge to the balcony. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Revizor
From the K of the Indián Zoe route, follow the edge to the K of the Little-big Horn route. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Revizor
Up the valley corner to the balcony, then up the chimney and the West face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Revizor
Up the left SW edge to the K. To the left, climb the face to a small balcony and then a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Revizor
To the right of "Revize jízdenek" up the overhanging face past a BH to the ledge and via… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Revizor
To the right of the corner up the face (K) over the overhang to the ledge, up the corner… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Revizor
Via the route "Revize jízdenek" over the K to the balcony and to the left up the sharp… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Revizor
Via the route Revize jízdenek to the ledge and to the right up the face (1st K) to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Revizor
Past the BH directly to the 1st K of the Zlatý Atlantik route Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Revizor
Up the corner on the valley edge past the 1st BH and the face past the 2nd and 3rd BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Revizor
Via the route "Předvařená čočka" to the 3rd BH and directly up the face past the 4th BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Revizor
Up the valley edge past 2 K and 3 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Revizor
Up the upper chimney from the chimney to a step to the NE edge, then along it past 2 K to… Rock Climbing
6
Revizor
To the left of the NE edge, build up to a ledge, then left into the middle of the face to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Revizor
Up the upper chimney and from the left around the wedged block, then up the face to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Revizor
Descend from the edge, follow the crack to a ledge, traverse and climb the face to the… Rock Climbing
5
Bivaková
To the right of the bivouac, climb the face to a ramp, then up the right corner to the… Rock Climbing
6
Bivaková
In the right part of the massif, climb the face past 2 bolts to the 3rd bolt. From here,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Bivaková
Completely in the right part of the massif via 4K to the summit (1st K=dK) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Bivaková
In the middle of the massif, follow the prominent edge past the 1st dBh to a balcony,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun

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