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Grimper à 3. Tisá

2935 voies
8 domaines
1–10 notes

Tisá – les murailles de Tisá (Tiské stěny) – est une cité rocheuse au nord du village de Tisá. Au bord du plateau de grès se dresse une barrière de parois orientées au sud, hautes jusqu'à 70 m, face aux monts de Bohême centrale, avec derrière elle un labyrinthe de tours, de failles et de passages étroits. Le site attire autant les randonneurs que les grimpeurs, et la tradition d'escalade y remonte à plus d'un siècle. climbing.place y recense plus de 2 900 voies.

On y trouve une escalade engagée sur trous, arêtes et fissures, avec quelques anneaux par voie. Les approches courtes et le large choix de cotations conviennent aussi bien aux débutants sur grès qu'aux grimpeurs expérimentés.

Faisant partie de Grès de l'Elbe, 3. Tisá possède 2935 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 10. Explorez ses 8 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Route on sun.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Jelení skála
By the "Valley Chimney" route for about 10 m, then up the face to the right (1st ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Jelení skála
To the right of "Roe Brown" by a narrow face of the pillar directly over a ring and the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6-
Jelení skála
Up the face along the edge of the chimney and to the left to a ring. Up the face to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Jelení skála
By the left crack in the SW face to a ledge, traverse right to a crack and then up it … Rock Climbing
5+
Jelení skála
Up the middle of the SE face and by a crack to a ledge. Rock Climbing
5
Jelení skála
By a chimney to a ledge and traverse left on it to the middle of the SE face and then by… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Jelení skála
Directly up the face past the 1st bolt to the ring of "Endless Paths", straight up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+/7-
Jelení skála
Up the face to the left of "Direct Route" and by a lieback to the 1st ring. Up the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Jelení skála
By a chimney into a gully and then by the E edge (1st ring). Rock Climbing
5
Jelení skála
By a chimney to the right into a gully, then by a crack in the NE face. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Jelení skála
By a chimney, an overhang and a small wall. Rock Climbing
4+
Nová pekárna
Through the chimney between Stará and Nová Pekárna n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Nová pekárna
Through the middle downhill crack (K) n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Nová pekárna
Left up the wall (1st K) into the crack, along it to the 2nd K. Through the crack n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stará pekárna
Left, up the West wall (1st K), through the crack (2nd K) and directly up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7-/7
Nová pekárna
Through the crack that turns into the right SE edge to the 1st K. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Nová pekárna
Left of the chimney, along the edge via 2 BH to the K of the “Dalamánek” route, and then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Nová pekárna
Along the right downhill edge (3 BH), left along the rib to the 1st K of the “Tři oříšky.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Nová pekárna
Via the prominent SE corner (K) n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Nová pekárna
Across the right chimney to the SE edge, along it (K) and shallow corners n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Stará pekárna
From the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Stará pekárna
From the wall and crack (K the same as the Panasonic route) and left up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Stará pekárna
Above the 2nd K, from the ledge directly along the crack n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
8-/8
Stará pekárna
From the 1st K of the “Zlaťák” route, up the wall via 4 bolts to the rappel ring. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Stará pekárna
Via the SE edge (2bh), corner (2bh), crack and edge (2bh) to the rappel ring. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Stará pekárna
From the block on the left, up the wall to the right onto a sloping ramp, directly up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Stará pekárna
From the block in the downhill wall, left via 6 bolts to the rappel ring. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Stará pekárna
Up the wall to the left of the SW edge under the overhang, right around the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Stará pekárna
Between the "Světlozor" and "Most" routes. Up the face past 5bh to the rappel bh. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Stará pekárna
Through the crack in the middle of the downhill wall (K) n. v. Rock Climbing

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