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Grimper à 9. PN de la Suisse bohémienne

2966 voies
6 domaines
2–10-/10 notes

Le parc national de la Suisse bohémienne a été créé en 2000 pour protéger les cités rocheuses de grès uniques entre Hřensko, Jetřichovice et Brtníky. Les secteurs d'escalade du parc – Hřensko, Soutěsky, Vysoká Lípa, Jetřichovice, Na Tokáni et Kyjov–Brtníky – regroupent près de 3 000 voies sur climbing.place, sur des tours au fond de vallées boisées.

Faisant partie de Grès de l'Elbe, 9. PN de la Suisse bohémienne possède 2966 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10-/10. Explorez ses 6 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Règles

Dans le parc national, on ne grimpe que sur les rochers autorisés.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Homole
Directly up the South edge to the plateau, up the wall to the ledge (hourglass) and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Homole
Through the crack in the S wall and diagonally right (crossing the Old Route) to the E… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Homole
From the right over the overhang to the SW edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Homole
To the left of the East edge, diagonally left up the South face to the plateau at the SW… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Bratrská věž
In the center of the valley wall, up the wall over a ring and hourglass to the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Bratrská věž
Follow the old path to the fore-summit. Up the uphill wall diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Bratrská věž
From the boulder at the SE edge (by aid climbing) and through the crack to the edge.… Rock Climbing
5
Bratrská věž
To the left in the valley wall to the ledge and along it right to the overhang. Over the… Rock Climbing
4+
Bachyně
In the valley wall, crack, higher up the gully directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Bratrská věž
Through the crack in the uphill wall to the fore-summit, step over and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Bratrská věž
From the SE edge, traverse right on a ledge into the valley wall and up the chimney to… Rock Climbing
6
Bachyně
In the North face, diagonally left along the crack (hourglass) to the ring. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Bachyně
From the massif, a short descent and then an overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Bachyně
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Bachyně
From the massif, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Májová věž
Start approximately 7 m right of the "Sandstorm" route, up the wall over 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Velký Pravčický kužel
Left of the South Route over 5 bolts to the ring of Arnold's variant of the Valley Route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Pravčický roh
In the middle of the gorge, descend through a long chimney and up the wall into the "Old… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Koráb
From the massif, descend westwards through a crevice and then a chimney southwards for… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Koráb
From the overgrown sloping ledge on the NW side (BH - Ma musique route belay) From the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
Přeskok
Koráb
From the massif on the right, descend through the chimney to the slab. Jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Koráb
Directly up the valley edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Koráb
On the NW side from the overgrown sloping ledge (belay - BH) up the wall over 3 rings to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
3
Koráb
From the N side, by chimney to the pillar. Right and like the Old Route to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Koráb
From the NW side, by overgrown wall diagonally right to the notch, through it to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Koráb
In the middle of the SE wall up to the ledge. Traverse left and follow the edge to below… Rock Climbing
4-
Koráb
From the south, traverse the chimney in the corner between the tower and the massif into… Rock Climbing
2+
Koráb
From the W side, by gully to the chimney, through it into the upper wall and by wall to… Rock Climbing
4-
Měsíční stěna
From N from the gully, about 10 m left of the NW edge, into a short corner crack and by… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Měsíční stěna
From the pillar left of the Smuggler's Crack, by wall over 6K to the summit plateau … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1

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