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Grimper à 9. PN de la Suisse bohémienne

2966 voies
6 domaines
2–10-/10 notes

Le parc national de la Suisse bohémienne a été créé en 2000 pour protéger les cités rocheuses de grès uniques entre Hřensko, Jetřichovice et Brtníky. Les secteurs d'escalade du parc – Hřensko, Soutěsky, Vysoká Lípa, Jetřichovice, Na Tokáni et Kyjov–Brtníky – regroupent près de 3 000 voies sur climbing.place, sur des tours au fond de vallées boisées.

Faisant partie de Grès de l'Elbe, 9. PN de la Suisse bohémienne possède 2966 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10-/10. Explorez ses 6 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Règles

Dans le parc national, on ne grimpe que sur les rochers autorisés.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Mariina věž
In the middle of the south face, follow the fine cracks, then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mariina věž
On the left in the south face, follow the gully to the platform and the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Rošťák (Kulišák)
Jump from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Rošťák (Kulišák)
On the left in the S wall, diagonally left to the valley edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Rošťák (Kulišák)
In the upland wall, chimneying between the tower and the massif, then up the smooth wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Rohlík
Up the crack from the valley overhang to the edge. Up the edge and route a) to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Rošťák (Kulišák)
Center of the S wall over the hourglass n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Rozporová věž
From the massif (from the stance), descend the wall and over a wide overhang (Jump 2) to… Rock Climbing
2+
Rohlík
From the upland (S) side in the lower horizontal crack, traverse diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Rohlík
Up the overhanging wall to the left of the upland edge directly n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Šarchán
Up the inner chimney to the ledge and chimneying to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Šarchán
In the chimney to the balcony, traverse right to the balcony and along it to the valley… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Šarchán
Up the corner crack along the NE edge to the balcony and up the narrow chimney to another… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Šarchán
From the east, up the chimney between the tower and the massif to a boulder. Chimneying… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Šarchán
From the massif, descend into a narrow chimney and then follow the Eastern Chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Šarchán
In the center of the valley wall, up the wall to a slanting crack and along it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Šarchán
From the west into a wide chimney, through a crack in the massif to a niche and then up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Šarchán
From the massif, descend via chimney to the ledge in the chimney between the tower and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Šarchán
Like Breath of the Jungle to the balcony in the valley wall. After the balcony, traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Šarchán
From the massif, jump n. v. (without descent) Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Šarchán
From the massif, descend diagonally through the hollow for about 2 m and jump to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Hacienda
Up the wide chimney between Hacienda and Ant Wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Hacienda
In the NW face, climb the crack under the overhang, in the overhang traverse (hourglass)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hacienda
Right into the "Chorale" route, up the steps and the narrowing chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Hacienda
Like the "City Noise" route, climb the crack to its end and left over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Hacienda
To the left of the "Fiesta" route, climb the wall (ring) to the 2nd ring. From there,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Hacienda
Up the valley chimney for about 10 m. Right under the overhang to the ring. Long traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hacienda
To the right of the "Domino" route, climb the crack over the overhang to the ring. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Hacienda
On the North face, right of the "Valley Route" to the ledge and right to the 1st ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Hacienda
Up the blunt West edge, or the right crack to the ledge (hourglass), traverse left and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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