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Grimper à České středohoří

1673 voies
41 domaines
1–10- notes

Les monts de Bohême centrale (České středohoří) sont un massif volcanique de Bohême du Nord, surtout dans la région d'Ústí nad Labem, qui s'étire sur environ 70 km du sud-ouest au nord-est et que coupe la vallée de l'Elbe. La roche est en grande partie basaltique, avec du trachyte et un peu d'andésite ; le point culminant est la Milešovka (837 m) et environ 84 % du massif sont protégés par la zone paysagère de 1 068,9 km². Un bon choix pour grimper sur autre chose que du grès.

Parmi les plus grands rochers figurent Ptačí stěny, Výří skály, Tašov, Kašparák – Chotovický vrch et Vrabinec, puis Skály u Mukařova, Zlatník, Brná et Špičák u Mostu ; à l'extrémité ouest se dresse le légendaire Bořeň en phonolite. Outre les voies traditionnelles, on y trouve de beaux sites sportifs. La plupart des rochers sont dans la zone protégée – vérifier les restrictions auprès de la fédération tchèque d'alpinisme et de l'administration de la zone.

Faisant partie de Bohême du Nord-Ouest, České středohoří possède 1673 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 10-. Explorez ses 41 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Route in shadow.

Règles

The area lies in the Central Bohemian Uplands PLA, with some crags in nature reserves. Check the ČHS crag database for any restrictions.

Les règles de la ČHS pour les sites rocheux tchèques et celles des commissions locales s'appliquent. Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé, ne pas modifier les prises.

1
Havraní stěna
Via the left slanting green small wall in the corner to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Havraní stěna
Via the left edge of the first block to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Havraní stěna
Via the corner in the middle of the first block from the left to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Havraní stěna
Via the right edge of the first block to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
Left of the South Wall route up the wall (4 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
From the 'clocks' of the S wall route directly (2 K, 2 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
Right in the S wall via an overhanging edge (3 bh) diagonally left into the wall, belay… Rock Climbing
5
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
Center of the S wall (4 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
Center of the wall to a ledge, traverse left to the edge and up along it to the level of… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
Center of the E wall directly (Bh) to the ring of route E wall, then directly (4 Bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
Through the crack in the middle of the valley wall to a sloping ledge, left along the… Rock Climbing
6
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
In the left part of the valley wall, up the wall along a crack (8 bh, K, 2 rivets) n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
In the left part of the valley wall, through a crack to a plateau in the E wall, right… Rock Climbing
6
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
From the 4th bh of the North Route, up the wall into the Traverz route and up the wall (2… Rock Climbing
5
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
Left in the W wall near the edge into the Traverz route, which we cross and continue… Rock Climbing
4
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
Up the narrow W wall by crossing the Traverz route (3 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Strážce Vaňova
From the edge to the ledge, then further along the edge n. v. (bh) Rock Climbing
4
Vaňovská jehla (Bandstein)
Start on the W edge, left across the N wall to the E edge, then further along the edge n.… Rock Climbing
4
Strážce Vaňova
Left of Angreštová wall (2 bh) to the edge and via the route For Whom the Bell Tolls n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Strážce Vaňova
Completely to the left in the upper wall, through a crack to a sloping ledge. From there… Rock Climbing
5
Strážce Vaňova
Right of Náhorní crack, diagonally right upwards through the wall into a fissure, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Strážce Vaňova
Overhanging high crack in the S wall (4 K, 3 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Strážce Vaňova
Through a fissure in the left part of the upper wall, later via a crack n. v. (K, 5 bh) Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Strážce Vaňova
Through a hollow into the corner (belay), up the wall (bh) to the left onto a ledge on… Rock Climbing
4
Strážce Vaňova
Between the routes Náhorní crack and Spartakiádní direttissima directly (K, 4 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Strážce Vaňova
Left in the valley wall (K), up into the crack, through the crack and wall (6 bh) to the… Rock Climbing
5
Strážce Vaňova
Overhanging edge (K) to the balcony (bh), further along the edge (2 bh) to the stance.… Rock Climbing
3
Strážce Vaňova
In the narrow E wall through the chimney (K), which disappears higher up, to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Strážce Vaňova
Along the left valley edge through an overhanging crack (3 bh) to the balcony of the… Rock Climbing
6
Strážce Vaňova
In the right part of the plateau wall through a crack to the edge and along it (K, 2 sk,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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