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Grimper à Divoká Šárka

181 voies
27 domaines
2–8+/9- notes

Divoká Šárka, à Prague, compte 181 voies sur 27 rochers, cotations 2 à 9-. La face sud de la barrière inférieure du Žabák, Čertovy nohavice, la face ouest du Dívčí skok, Padák, Velká černá věž et le côté gauche des gorges de Džbán sont les plus fournis. Escalade surtout traditionnelle sur friends ; certaines voies ont spits et relais fixes. C'est une réserve naturelle – l'escalade n'est permise que sur les rochers désignés.

Faisant partie de Prague et environs, Divoká Šárka possède 181 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 8+/9-. Explorez ses 27 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Friends, Traditional Climbing, Route on sun, Fixed belay.

Règles

- The creation of new routes outside existing climbing areas is not allowed. - Modification of the surroundings of the rocks, including felling trees, creating campsites, etc., is not allowed. - The use of winter climbing equipment is prohibited.

Nature Conservation: Some rocks are in Nature Reserve. Climbing is allowed on them year-round. OP Prague Document - OOP 2023-2032, OP authority MHMP (Prague City Hall)

In nature reserves (e.g. Divoká Šárka) you may climb only at specifically designated spots. Be considerate of cottage and garden owners below the crags.

  • Les règles de la ČHS pour les sites rocheux tchèques et celles des commissions locales s'appliquent.
  • Créer ou tailler des prises est interdit.
  • La magnésie est interdite ou seulement tolérée selon le site.
  • Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé – après la pluie ou en hiver, cela peut durer des heures, voire des jours.
  • Respectez les propriétaires des chalets et jardins au pied des rochers.

In nature reserves you may climb only on specifically designated rocks. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

Parking

50.09308, 14.32240

5
Žabák - dolní bariéra - J stěna
Via Velká Poštolka under the overhang (piton), from there a difficult horizontal traverse… Rock Climbing Route on sun
3
Žabák - dolní bariéra - J stěna
Up high vertical steps of the pillar in the central part of the S wall, higher up through… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6+
Žabák - dolní bariéra - J stěna
From the ground up the wall between Malá and Velká Poštolka (unprotected). Step towards… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6+
Žabák - dolní bariéra - J stěna
Start to the left of Malá Poštolka up the wall to the bolt (without stepping off or… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6
Žabák - dolní bariéra - J stěna
From the ring of Velká Poštolka up the overhanging wall between Malá and Velká Poštolka… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
3
Žabák - dolní bariéra - J stěna
Left of Velká Poštolka (Great Kestrel) via a sloping ramp leading left upwards to the SW… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
3
Žabák - dolní bariéra - J stěna
Up a short vertical wall or more easily via steps to the left onto the edge. Continue… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Skály mezi hřebenem Černých věží a Žabákem
From the center of the gorge between the Black Towers and the Žabák (Frog), a structured… Rock Climbing
4+
Žabák - dolní bariéra - J stěna
Up a short vertical wall in the fall line of the SW ridge. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
4
Žabák - dolní bariéra - J stěna
Start about 2 m from the edge (yellow colored rock). Directly up the wall to the second… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6
Velká černá věž
Step under the prominent crack in the south wall. Up the overhanging corner crack and… Rock Climbing
6
Velká černá věž
Left part of the valley wall over overhangs (2 bh) to the top of the tower. Note: secured… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Velká černá věž
Left of the overhanging corner crack, up the wall to the bolt and up under the overhang … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Velká černá věž
Step under the prominent crack in the south wall. Up the overhanging corner crack and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
3
Velká černá věž
Through the corner from the SE to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
3
Velká černá věž
Continuation of Hřebenovka (Ridge Route). Over a low overhang into a steep, crumbly gully… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4
Velká černá věž
Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
5
Velká černá věž
Using delicate holds directly up the block to the right of the previous route. Directly… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
5
Velká černá věž
Left part of the S wall slightly to the left and heavily onto the sloping slab. Over the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4
Velká černá věž
Up the wall near the SW edge below the overhang. A high step right onto an inclined slab… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
3
Velká černá věž
Up the small pillar from the birch tree to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4+
Půlnoční skála
Start from a horizontal platform in the Devil's Gorge (lowest point at the wall). Start… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4
Půlnoční skála
In the fall line of the Great Midnight Overhang, enter overhanging into a wide, slightly… Rock Climbing
6
Dívčí skok (Koruna Šárky) - S stěna
6 m left (east) of the Velká Křížová crack is a fissure that could be climbed using… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
7+
Půlnoční skála
By the right crack to a grassy terrace with a large rock block (sling), under an overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Půlnoční skála
To the right of the Great Midnight Overhang, up the wall from the left over 3 rivets and… Rock Climbing
6+
Dívčí skok (Koruna Šárky) - S stěna
Start in a corner like Velká Křížová, left (bolt hanger) and directly up a small wall … Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Dívčí skok (Koruna Šárky) - Z stěna
Through a strongly outward-pushing corner in the center of the wall, using a crack (piton… Rock Climbing
5
Dívčí skok (Koruna Šárky) - S stěna
Ascent by a crack in the right part of the wall. Over grassy steps through a corner below… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
7-
Dívčí skok (Koruna Šárky) - S stěna
Up the center of the wall between Velká and Malá Křížová (bolt hanger) around a ledge … Rock Climbing Route in shadow

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